Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, I went and bought a headlight restoration kit made by Permatex today at the local car parts store. Will do this on the weekend and post some pics...

Worth a try for $30....I mean, I blew $54.50 on a Mega Quickpick yesterday, so....

Here's what I used to clean mine.

post-13979-1246446294_thumb.jpg

Meguires Medium Cut Cleaner and a ten dollar battery operated shoe polisher off Ebay lol.

Finished off with a coat of VuPlex, which is basically the same as Plexus for cleaning and protecting plastic.

Comes up all right, eh? (pic was taken at night, with a mobile phone).....

post-13979-1246446502_thumb.jpg

Nah, didn't think to take a before picture, but they were pretty well oxidised.

I've used one of the restoration kits on my other Skyline with all the various grades of wet and dry etc, but that method ^^^ came up better.

A lot less work too, battery shoe polisher FTW :(

As I posted before, when doing my whole car with it, I used Meguiars paint cleaner on the headlights as well and they came up great. Probably just got rid of built up wax and polish rather than oxidisation though.

Agree, I used meguires plastic polish on the headlights and it's come up great :D .........worth a shot, as it's not that expensive to try

I need someone who can take mine completely apart and clean the inside of the lens...

put it in the oven for 15mins and the glue will get soft then you can pull the lens off. there's a few vids on "You Tube" about it :)

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...