Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm starting to mod my 34, but I'm not sure where to start first.

I've got around $2k to start, and I'm thinking of either getting:

CES Racing twin dump pipe and full 3" system (40+ ATW kw gain I was told)

or

Trust PEII Cat back exhaust, intercooler and a HKS FCD.

Any advise would be great, thanks.

K

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275753-mods-for-a-34-gtt/
Share on other sites

My opinion, others will see different:

I would start with the exhaust as it is one of the first important mods which will pave the way for future upgrades. Focus on the supporting mods before going too hard on the engine.

After this, opening up the intake with a performance panel filter or pod setup would be second.

Have a read of the Quick Ref Guide

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fo...ick-t66556.html

Was made to help new users :)

In particular - this thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fi...-co-t45218.html

Its all about "what mods to do first".

cheers

Have a read of the Quick Ref Guide

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fo...ick-t66556.html

Was made to help new users :P

In particular - this thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fi...-co-t45218.html

Its all about "what mods to do first".

cheers

Thanks for sending the link, much appreciated.

40+ KW at the wheels with an exhaust!!!!! Not for shit! :P

MAYBE an extra 15 - 20 rwkw.

Step 1- Straight through exhaust with dump pipe (Should be around the $1,300 mark for a good custom setup)

Step 2 - Pod filter (Should be about $60 with the flange which you can purchase from repco)

Step 3 - Front Mount Intercooler (about $900 for a decent one installed)

Step 4 - Manual boost controller (turbo tech) wind it up to about 10-11 PSI (At this stage, your car should not be running too rich or retarded) $30

At this stage you should have about 170 - 180 rwkw (About $2,300).

If you choose to get a power FC (which is over your budget) would be a wise move, should get you to a bit over 200 rwkw.

Also, don't forget to put a coke can in between you BOV and piping to give you the extra 120 rwkw of compression surge.

40+ KW at the wheels with an exhaust!!!!! Not for shit! :down:

MAYBE an extra 15 - 20 rwkw.

Step 1- Straight through exhaust with dump pipe (Should be around the $1,300 mark for a good custom setup)

Step 2 - Pod filter (Should be about $60 with the flange which you can purchase from repco)

Step 3 - Front Mount Intercooler (about $900 for a decent one installed)

Step 4 - Manual boost controller (turbo tech) wind it up to about 10-11 PSI (At this stage, your car should not be running too rich or retarded) $30

At this stage you should have about 170 - 180 rwkw (About $2,300).

If you choose to get a power FC (which is over your budget) would be a wise move, should get you to a bit over 200 rwkw.

Also, don't forget to put a coke can in between you BOV and piping to give you the extra 120 rwkw of compression surge.

should be able to get a decent turbo back exhaust for under $1000 that will do the job nicely.

just jap stainless bell mouth dump/ front pipe: $199

x-force or catco 3" cat: $175

and you should be able to get a x-froce mild steel cat back for about $600 or less.

or i just found this. turbo back exhaust for $800 http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...roducts_id=2283

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...