Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
On 17/03/2021 at 8:09 AM, Ben C34 said:

What?

I mean to these are tried to make conversion from RB25DE/DE NEO to DET/DET NEO

Does thay'll change cylinder block but knowing all RB25 blocks it's 75t , could all used for turbo?

 

 

Sorry for bad spelling or mistakes in my write

  • 1 month later...
On 22/06/2009 at 5:48 AM, dwest said:

This is a question many have asked.

I spent 2 years in Japan and before I went there I didnt even know how to change oil. All I did was turn wrenches for the Japanese in exchange for cheap cheap cheap parts. I once got an Rb26dett from a R33 for 400USD...

Anyways I was going on and on about my honda days when we used to build the crap out of a tin can and call it tuning, I did alot of watching back then.

I wanted to build a Rb25det and use the money from selling the 26 to achieve 500hp to the wheels with moderate cash less then 10kusd. Maybe around half of that.

I went on about forged this and upgraded that.

The Japanese guys scratched there head and said WHY!!!

They assured me a stock Rb25det on a stock headgasket was more then capable of 500hp. They said to add a accusump, and some injectors, a ebay turbo and tune and have fun...

I couldnt belive it but yes its true. How do I know? Because I did it and the engine is in my car right now. I blew the engine about 5 months ago but thats because I got boost happy and went up over 1.9 bar... oops my knock light got ignored because I wanted to teach a porche a lesson I won the fight lost the war.

Anyway back to the story. So here is what your RB can take relaibly:

RB20det: 350-400hp You will need a headgasket and might experiance lag of course you will need a turbo capable of getting you here along with a tune etc... But the engine itself is one of the strongest RB the Rb20det is stronger then both the Rb25 and 26... They just lack displacement.

RB25det anything under 550 is golden with this engine its solid as hell and has half the problems of its big brother the Rb26dett its just the Rb26dett has more upgrade potential and can strectched farther now the R33 versions are solid. The R34 versions have weaker blocks and the computer crap makes them a pain to tune.

The R32 have the oil starvation issue but before you go out buying Jun oil pumps and sumps and spending crazy money heres how the Japanese do it. Its called an Accusump it will cost you about 300usd that and a baffle and problem solved.

The Rb26dett is excellent in the R33 sturdy block, better design, usually lower mileage then the R32 version, less complicated then the R34 version and can be cross compatible with all Skyline chasis. There is no downside to this motor, in order to reach well over 600 the rods and pistons will have to go.

The engine can do 600 reliably with the right safety mods.

Accusump, baffle, huge oil cooler, GOOD TUNING!!! GOOD TUNING!!! GOOD TUNING!!! I cant stress that enough... Its all about your tune when going for big numbers dont practice on your baby go to a professional now your beater is a diffrent story...

This same information has been stressed before... You can do just fine with N1 oil pumps, and water pumps, you dont need Tomei, Jun, Greddy, they are overprices and good for another 1000rpm ooooh... An Rb is not an Sr it has the torque downlow to make you smile without high RPM...

Also for the Rb25det guys here is a little advice stay the hell away from high lift cams that take major head mods, the reason is because the Rb25det is stroked in a way to reject high lift cams even after the head is built up. For this reason you lose low end power and without a Jun oil pump ie 1500 dollars you will blow your motor to get the most out of your cams, 256 to 260 lift is more then enough...

If you feel you need 272's then its time for a Rb26dett... You lose power where it counts in a 25 with huge mods...

No need to stroke your Rb26 to an Rb28dett. Michia a freind in Japan has 900whp on an Rb26dett with just forgies and bolt ons and he has lost no torque and he doesnt have a jun oil pump or anything like it he uses an N1...

He also has poncams imagine that... He has 2 big twins and a GREAT TUNE!!!

Save yourself some money and spend the money where it counts... Support mods...

Research accusump it can be your best freind and save you thousands...

Cheap and reliable does not happen. 馃槀馃槀馃槀

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was under the impression the reason why OEMs are going with solutions like relatively thin "right-sized" cylinder walls with technologies like PTWA and open deck is because they care a lot about whatever marginal knock margin benefits they get from that vs the structural rigidity benefits of a closed deck block and thicker cylinder walls. I also see some weird stuff like plastic inserts in the water jacket around the cylinders to try and equalize cylinder wall temperatures. re: the PRP blocks and heads at the end of the day it's hard to know what is and isn't going to work there, just have to see what the initial buyers say about it.
    • Which is why I didn't mention that hardness testing, and specifically mentioned the bore and deck thickness testing. Yeah, not really. The bore temperature will be a lot more even around the top half inch or so, where the material distribution is dominated by the deck, and which is the only place where the bore surface temperature heating any gas in the cylinder is likely to have any effect on detonation. Think about it. Another inch or so down the bore, you might have a hotter spot. The gas there might get a bit hotter, then the piston rises squeezes that gas away from there at high speed and mixes it with other gas from nearby. Instant dilution of the problem. I'd be surprised if it was an issue at any time other than in racing engines or OEM dev engines being run at the ragged edge of tuning. Say what now?
    • https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/education/engine-tech-material-hardness-testing/ The PRP testing on block hardness I'm not sure how much it actually can be trusted. The thinner cylinder walls on RBs is a bit of a problem vs 2JZ but it really depends on the design goal. Siamesed cylinder bores like a 2JZ cause uneven cylinder wall temps too, which means a bit of distortion induced by that + the hotspot can affect knock margin. Something that actually gives me a bit of pause with the PRP block, whether super thick cylinder walls are going to keep it from being drop-in compatible on an otherwise OEM rebuild. 
    • Yeah very valid point. I am waiting for one of the other tuners to come back from vacation so he can help me a bit when the cat is installed again. In the meantime I am going to finish up my polishing and ceramic coating that I have started myself.    N45 Dr Beasley product is highly recommended for a paint primer / polisher. Using this EXO Gtechniq also for the ceramic but next time might use the light serum before hand also. Looks great. 
    • Running rich in conditions where it shouldn't probably won't do great things for catalytic converter lifespan. I would fix that sooner than later.
  • Create New...