Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have 235/40ZR18s on front and 265/35ZR18s on back... ...now one friend is telling me they should be 28psi front and 30psi back... ...where another is saying 38psi and 40psi... ... The last few time I've checked them I've kept all four at 34psi... ...(the new auto air pumps are great for that)...

I'm sick of hearing these two go on and on about what is right... ...so does anyone else know what the should be???...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276009-quick-pressure-question/
Share on other sites

Yes the eternal mystery! I know on the track you should set the presures quite high (around 40psi) but on the street (and in the wet) thats a bit much I believe. Especially if you have super hard suspension. Remember the tyres do need to move a bit to absorb bumps etc.

nooo. on the track generally you will be lowering from your street pressure as they will rise with the added loads of track driving.

it's really down to the type of tyre, type of use, manufactures recommendation and personal preference as to what is best on the street.

as a general rule the more pressure you put in the 'sharper' it will feel handling wise. it will feel like it turns better and it will transmit more bumps etc to the cabin. over a certain point though traction will be reduced as the reduced compliance in the tyre means it will loose traction more easily.

less pressure will give you a little more roll and give a nicer ride with less bumps etc transmitted to the cabin. too low though and it will damage tyres sidewalls and will give poor handling and traction,

the trick is to find the sweet spot. I would start at around 30-35psi all round for street driving for most regular radial street tyres. adjust a little up or down within that range and see what you prefer. keep and eye on the wear too.

As you increase the pressure, you will increase the overall stiffness of the tyre, which will contribute to the ability of the tyre to get you around a corner. But, you will also decrease the contact patch area of the tyre. There comes a point where the added stiffness is overcome by the reduced contact patch, and the car no longer likes to go around corners.

If anything, you need higher pressures in the front tyres - this will have the effect of reducing any understeer. For your setup, I would recommend 38 front, 36 rear for general road use. But maybe check what the manufacturer recommends, and then basically ignore it. Add at least 2psi to what the manufacturer recommends, making sure you still have more pressure in the fronts.

In the wet, ADD pressure (about 2psi or so) - what this does is hold the tread in a more open configuration, allowing the tyre to more easily pump the water from beneath the tread.

Thanks guys...

I guess I'll stick with what I've been doing and leave it at 34psi all round... ...Maybe pump the front up a little... ...Both mates agreed that the rear should have a little more in them because they are a wider tyre... ...But you all recommend less in the rear...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...