Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AVCR is the worst ever..

I use a GiZZMO MS IBC which I picked up brand new for $300.. works perfect, ran it on both external and internal gate setups (1.3 bar) and no issues at all. Awesome boost curves all day and very similar to the BLITZ SPEC R

If you don't mind spending the cash then go BLITZ SPEC R, if you want to get something just as good for half the price go a GiZZMO MS IBC

I have boost grapghs for the MS IBC if you wanna see :)

yeah we wanna see :)

i noticed there are 2 versions of the gizzmo. is there much difference?

gizzmo%20ibc.jpgGizzmo%20MS-ibc.jpg

Edited by Munkyb0y
  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Not to hijack or anything but its a good thing I read this thread first basically I'm on the market for one as well just got myself a PFC so I was just planning to get Apexi's PFC Boost Controller for convenience sake and i don't want another doo hickey on my dash, but because that uses the same solenoid as the AVCR I'm guessing that one is shit too?

Appreciate any advice guys.....

P.S. @Hamish...When is this Buller thing going through man???...Anyone up for duck meet next week?

Check this thread out: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Dy...fc-t229928.html

Holy crap....thanks for the link abu, I just took my baby to Trent the other day...if I cant trust my own tuner who can I trust??? lol, Well I guess since PFC Boost Control and AVCR use the same solenoid AVCR is obviously out of the questoin....greattt... now I have to get a boost controller....another thing to put on my dash...

EDIT: Anyone know where to get Gizzmo IBC or a Profec for a decent price?

Holy crap....thanks for the link abu, I just took my baby to Trent the other day...if I cant trust my own tuner who can I trust??? lol, Well I guess since PFC Boost Control and AVCR use the same solenoid AVCR is obviously out of the questoin....greattt... now I have to get a boost controller....another thing to put on my dash...

EDIT: Anyone know where to get Gizzmo IBC or a Profec for a decent price?

yeah the silver is the previous model. but does anyone know if there's a performance difference between the two?
So if a new IBC is around 300-400, and an AVCR is aorund 700-800 (just quick price look up)

WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU PAYING FOR FOR AN AVCR?...is it made of gold???

lol probably for the brand name but I checked and it's certainly not made of gold :)

I got my MS IBC from modyourcar.com they usually run a special on them http://www.modyourcar.com.au/gizzmo-msibc-...ontroller-p5327

$299 at the moment + delivery which is decent, that's what I paid late last year for one. Also check with Trent because I know he can get them so he might be able to work out something for you incl installation and tune if your going through him

Not sure on the difference between the silver one and the black one, probably best to go to the GIZZMO site and compare the two. They have full specs on the GIZZMO site but when I asked Trent ages ago he specifically said get the black one (MSIBC) so I went with that

GIZZMO IBC (SILVER): http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/Product_IBC.html

GIZZMO MS IBC (BlACK): http://www.gizzmoelectronics.com/Product_MSIBC.html

Man I should work for GIZZMO!!

AVCR is the best.

I got the PFC boost control kit that uses the same solinoid, the boost curve is flat at 20 PSI!

Get one, you wont look back.

:) You did look at the post Abu posted right?

Woww duudee....Why so serious......

All I'm saying is you got some dyno sheets to prove your case cause the way I see it AVCR has got some bad rep and Trent's dyno sheets prove just that...plus how can you justify the 3x price tag compared to something like the IBC?

yes, and it is common knowledge that the avcr is not a great ebc... and that you are again.... wrong

although in the year that i have known you on these forums i dont think i have EVER seen you listen to anyone's advice, so why would you start now?

srsly, you wannna be a productive member of these forums, you are on a fair bit and want people to help you.... here's some helpful advice... check your fkn racism at the door dipshit...

yes, and it is common knowledge that the avcr is not a great ebc... and that you are again.... wrong

although in the year that i have known you on these forums i dont think i have EVER seen you listen to anyone's advice, so why would you start now?

srsly, you wannna be a productive member of these forums, you are on a fair bit and want people to help you.... here's some helpful advice... check your fkn racism at the door dipshit...

Careful, I wouldn't get too lippy with me lad.

Woww duudee....Why so serious......

All I'm saying is you got some dyno sheets to prove your case cause the way I see it AVCR has got some bad rep and Trent's dyno sheets prove just that...plus how can you justify the 3x price tag compared to something like the IBC?

Why so serious?

As I said to you before, I am explaining to the fella that wanted advice on what setup I had, and how it worked (and it worked great).

Why the f**k would you write "did you not read abus article"?

Even if I read his article, it wouldn't change how my boost controller performed would it?

So why write it?

abu has had his experience, I've had mine.

Do you see my point yet considering my thorough explanation above?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...