Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have someone interested in my car. But the person either seems 12 years old, or trying to suss out the adress of where I hold the car.

some emails:

cust (exact spelling):

i wanna knwo more abt this car

me:

sure mate, what would you like to know?

cust:

does it have a clean title?

me:

what do you mean by clean title? havnt heard that term before..?

cust:

has it been hit or something before?

me:

no known crash history. im first owner is oz. the crack by the tailight is from when I attempted a 2 door rear conversion.

if you'd like to see the car let me know and we can arrange a time.

cust:

ok that is fine give me a time so i can test drive it???

cust:

let me know what time can come to see the car cuz i am a nissan skyline fan big time!!

the last 2 replys, one before I could reply to the previous, has got me a bit concerned that this person is just trying to find out where I keep the car.

what do you guys think? I am taking extra precautions due to recent break ins etc happening with cars for sale, or due to be on sale soon, ie kelvin's gtr etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276750-dodgey-for-sale-enquiry/
Share on other sites

Here's some tips for getting rid of tyre-kickers, dreamers and other idiots and possible thieves-

1 unless you have good reason, never divulge rego details (not even a rego number in a pic), and if arranging an inspection ask a mate/relative to use his address as meeting point - insist only one max 2 persons comes to see car

2 most important point : tell them they only get to see the car when you see proof they have funds to purchase (i.e. they can show you a bank checque (a current finance company car loan approval doc may substitute for bank checque but try for the former) for an amount close to or equal to the asking or agreed sale price if you have discussed one over phone - you should try to get a ball park agreement on a figure - if they don't like the car they of course re-bank their bank checque)

3 do not relent on the proof of funds requirement - if they are genuine they will have the readies and not be offended, if they are just wanting a joy-ride exercise they will refuse to prove they have any funds

3 get them to go to the address but do not go there with the car if they don't have the bank checque (your mate relative can ask to see it and phone you while you wait close by) - no checque no see car!

4 they got the checque, show em the car but not the rego papers until they hand over the checque as your address is on the papers

5 make sure checque is OK by phoning the bank if you have any doubts

6 with nternet enquiries never reveal any info about yourself that may assist a thief or scammer - apply same procedures as 1-5

At the end of the day, you need to sort the timewasters and dreamers and thieves from genuine buyers - dont get desperate, better to sell via uaction or trade-in if needing another car for peace of mind.

NEXT thing to note - the biggest wankers are detectable by the fact the ask a zillion questions and often contact you relentlessly - all froth and bubble and excitement but no substance - from actual experience selling cars privately from time to time I find that the REAL buyer does not call/sms/email over and over again

But Mr Gray over cautious approach seems to be a good recipe for not getting robbed.

+1, BUT

too much over caution also says what are you hiding about the history of the car.

Personally, i would not give you a cheque without rego details so i can do REVS check etc.

i recently purchased another Skyline and the bloke was real good. Let me see details so i could do my research, at my cost took it to my mechanic for a check over etc. But if he was trying to block by wanting money before inspection then i would walk as to me he wants a sale without due diligence.

+1, BUT

too much over caution also says what are you hiding about the history of the car.

Personally, i would not give you a cheque without rego details so i can do REVS check etc.

i recently purchased another Skyline and the bloke was real good. Let me see details so i could do my research, at my cost took it to my mechanic for a check over etc. But if he was trying to block by wanting money before inspection then i would walk as to me he wants a sale without due diligence.

====================

my bad, could have put more details in but kept it short - of course when he shows he actually can pay you go thru the usual - REVS check mechanical inspection and answer all enq with the bloke - its sorting out the dreamers that just want to go for a drive in your car for entertainment that points 1-4 are designed to do

REVS is based on Chassis+VIN NO more than rego so even at that stage you can still keep your address somewhat secure

like i said after all if they guy doesn't want to buy - he can re-bank his checque so you goota be fair and give him a good opportunity for to do all his diligence

its just that don't be feeling as a seller you have no rights - you do!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahhh, I need the whole head unit. I definitely needed to roll back through and review your setup, ha ha! Neat setup they have going on. I just need a full double din head unit. But I want good and responsive. I might have to review what the likes of pioneer have out these days.
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
×
×
  • Create New...