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Payback21's Gts-4 Rb26dett Build

2LV8ETR

By 2LV8ETR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
Posted

Greets all.

As some of you may know, Payback21 had bought himself a BNR32 front cut that we were going to shoehorn into his HNR32 (Gts-4).

Well the build is now finished after 2 weekends worth of work and we thought that we'd share the experience to let anyone else who's interested know, what we did and how we went about it.

Firstly, the arrival of the front cut.

post-15314-1246191264_thumb.jpg post-15314-1246191418_thumb.jpg

This is what the girl looked like before we tore her apart.

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Now we get down to the nitty gritty. We jacked her up and placed her onto stands, then removed the usual items but also the front fenders. The reason for the removal of the fenders was for easier access to feed the wiring looms.

The way we wanted to go about the swap was to remove the sub-frame, engine, and gearbox in one piece from the front cut, and transfer the whole lot over to the donor vehicle.

And so it begins with a little help from my son.

post-15314-1246191979_thumb.jpg post-15314-1246192031_thumb.jpg

Next we jacked up the front of the car and supported the sub-frame with stands.

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Now we removed the driveline items and supported the gearbox with a trolley jack.

Then we removed the bolts for the sub-frame and gearbox crossmember. Then we slowly lowered the sub-frame and gearbox down to more stands.

post-15314-1246192587_thumb.jpg

Next we jacked up the front of the car to a point where we had enough clearance for the complete setup to clear the bottom of the front frame. We used truck stands under the chassis to support it while we were moving the engines around.

We then transferred the trolley jack to under the sub-frame, jacked it up, removed the stands, then moved the setup out using just the trolley jacks.

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At this point we swapped over both sides of the wiring loom because it's easy to get to everything with no engine in the way.

Now it's time to fit the 26, here's one we prepared earlier....

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Now using a reverse system to the way we removed the 20, we slotted the 26 in lowering the car slowly and checking all of our clearances on both sides of the engine. As we slowly lowered the car to a point where we could still reach underneath, we stabilised the car then set about lifting the setup using the trolley jacks and aligning the sub-frame bolts, and gearbox crossmember holes.

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Once everything was lined up and bolted in, we proceeded to connect all of the other pipes, tubes, wires, etc...

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All wired up and ready to fire.

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We primed the fuel line then turned the key......... First pop and she was rumbling away. This is how she was road tested :P.

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Next, we wanted to install the triple cluster so out came the dash and we exchanged the GT-R wiring loom in. We wanted to fire the car up and get her running before we did this step in case there was an issue on fire up, there would be less wiring to track the fault down to.

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All back together again and ready to rumble.

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If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.

See you on the next cruise!

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James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
Posted

Very nice. Always quicker dropping the sub frame out.

Nismo plate on the firewall had me thinking you might have scored cams/turbos. The part number shows up as Nismo twin plate clutch which was probably fitted at factory.

That's a shite load of work in that time hey, well done.

WYTSKY Veteran

WYTSKY

Posted
Posted

great read mate, well done.

What I liked most was the thinking/planning ahead... just for simple things like incase there were probs in the future with the wiring, so you warmed the car up first while everything was out....

skylinekid Proficient

skylinekid

Posted
Posted

yeh sounds good in theory to start the car with the dash wiring out but wat happens if u start it and warm it up and it doesnt have oil pressure. yes u could hear that it doesnt sound right but its still always a good idea to be able to keep an eye on oil pressures

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

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yeh sounds good in theory to start the car with the dash wiring out but wat happens if u start it and warm it up and it doesnt have oil pressure. yes u could hear that it doesnt sound right but its still always a good idea to be able to keep an eye on oil pressures

I probably didn't clarify what we did here. We left the original HNR wiring and dash in place while the transplant and fire up was being done. Once the start was accomplished and everything such as oil pressure was good, we road tested the car.

When we came back from the test and gave it the thumbs up, we then ripped out the dash and replaced the HNR wiring loom with the BNR.

I wasn't comfortable with doing the whole lot at once because the front cut was open to the elements before we got it and I didn't want to run the risk of tracing through three different wiring looms to find a fault.

As it turned out, all was good.

payback21 Community Regular

payback21

Posted
Posted

Hey Fellas,

The job went pritty straight forrward with the help of my good mate Allen.

Everything from the the front cut pritty well fell into place for the GTS4. Im very happy with how it all went.

Just got to replace the twin front pipes to 3" instead of 3 1/12" and shes ready for a cruise and dyno run. Ive got some other bits and pieces to tweak the girl up too, so i cant wait.

Feel like taking it for another rap around the block with the exhaust off. Its nice weather for it. :thumbsup:

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

UPDATE:

Today the front pipes and decat went in then took her for a spin. All is well with the car.

We took her back and decided to remove the restrictor then I placed the Mines chip into the ECU. BIG difference.

Anyway, Brett is a happy camper and if you have the means, I highly recommend the upgrade to any HNR owner.

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hey guys nice job just wondering how much it cost roughly????

how much was the front cut and anything else you may hav needed???

cheers.

Greets man. The cut cost $6,500 with the Nismo gear. We didn't need anything else to complete the job.

Did you swap the sumps, as i believe the front and rear diffs will have different ratios now?

Yes mate, the ratios are different. Still undecided as to what to do but I believe that Brett is swaying towards leaving it as is for the time being.

With the torque split controller in the car, he can dial the difference out.

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