Jump to content
SAU Community

What To Do Before Turbo Upgrade

wayde

By wayde,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

wayde Enthusiast

wayde

Posted
Posted

i just want to know what to do before i can upgrade to a high mount turbo. Hopefully keeping stock internals if possible.

Fmic, 3 inch hks exhaust tyrbo back, upgraded suspension and slotted hd brakes. Boost controller, turbo timer, bosch 550 hp fuel pump. I know this car had a 500 hp engine before i got it now has half cut engine new stock turbo and gear box. I think the heads from old engine but not sure.

Cheers

Wayde

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277192-what-to-do-before-turbo-upgrade/
Share on other sites
ONE-VIA Collaborator

ONE-VIA

Posted
Posted
i just want to know what to do before i can upgrade to a high mount turbo. Hopefully keeping stock internals if possible.

Fmic, 3 inch hks exhaust tyrbo back, upgraded suspension and slotted hd brakes. Boost controller, turbo timer, bosch 550 hp fuel pump. I know this car had a 500 hp engine before i got it now has half cut engine new stock turbo and gear box. I think the heads from old engine but not sure.

Cheers

Wayde

is that what you have or did you just answer your own question

EeLeYe Mentor

EeLeYe

Posted
Posted

Make sure you uprade the AFM with a new turbo. They tend to suck just that tad extra air lol. After my turbo upgrade when I had a PFC, I had to get a Z32 AFM to manage the extra volume of air.

Turbz RB-25 Experienced

Turbz RB-25

Posted
Posted
clutch and diff will need to be done, but depends on power.... there are actually some dipsets out there that will highmount a 200rwkw turbo setup just for looks...

Wrong....

I have 312rwkw my diff is fine. A mate with the exact setup as mine has 364 rwkw and his diff is fine and has lasted 3 years now and still going.

Why would you get an upgraded diff for 200rwkw?

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

ok, so you are going to tell me that a stock diff is as good as a mechanical one for hi-power applications.... :rofl:

looks like every serious race car in the world has just wasted a bunch of money.... what idiots

have you ever driven a car with a mechanical diff? i'd guess not if you think that the stocker is fine for close to 400rwkw

i have the same power level you do and my diff was probably the best non power upgrade i have ever done

Turbz RB-25 Experienced

Turbz RB-25

Posted
Posted
ok, so you are going to tell me that a stock diff is as good as a mechanical one for hi-power applications.... :rofl:

looks like every serious race car in the world has just wasted a bunch of money.... what idiots

have you ever driven a car with a mechanical diff? i'd guess not if you think that the stocker is fine for close to 400rwkw

i have the same power level you do and my diff was probably the best non power upgrade i have ever done

200rwkw is hardly a "high power application".

Don't go off tangents.

The person on this thread asked "what should I do prior to upgrading my turbo?"

At around 200rwkw (what a stock turbo is usually capable of pulling reasonabley safely), it WOULD be a waste of money to upgrade the diff. Standard diff is more than sufficient to support 200rwkw.... :D

Unless you can prove otherwise?

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted
Wrong....

I have 312rwkw my diff is fine. A mate with the exact setup as mine has 364 rwkw and his diff is fine and has lasted 3 years now and still going.

Why would you get an upgraded diff for 200rwkw?

no to mention... if you actually READ my post you'd realise that i said the clutch and diff will need to be done depending on power level.....

the turbo is not mentioned, thus the power is at this point an unknown quantity... and at no point did i say a diff was needed for 200rwkw

what i said was that some people are stupid enough to highmount a 20rwkw setup for looks only....

also fwiw i personally would definately get a diff/weldy for 200rwkw... my rolla is currently having a 150rwkw build and it already has a welded diff

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

and a diff is never a waste of money... a weldy can be had for virtually nothing.

with the 4ac in my rolla putting out an epic 40rwkw you can STILL notice the difference with a locked diff

mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted
If you read his first post, you will notice he has the stock turbo on it............ :rofl:

so the point of this thread is what should he do before he upgrades his turbo to a stock on is it?

LOL

back on topic,

clutch

injectors

ecu

AFM

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By PranK · Posted

      Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • Chupapy
      Help please! Hole ontop of box?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • Duncan
      Help please! Hole ontop of box?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Chupapy
      Help please! Hole ontop of box?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Duncan
      Help please! Hole ontop of box?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...