Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got my exhaust system all sorted out except for the cannon. I've got HPC coated extractors from DKNE, and getting a custom 2.5" system made up, although unsure if I should go with a 2.5" or 3" cannon? What would be the difference in sound and what have you guys got?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277324-25-or-3-cannon/
Share on other sites

Are you talking about the actual canon tip 2.5" or 3" or the whole exhaust system? If the whole exhaust system go with 2.5" for best all round gain. 3" catback will give you more top end, more noise, and less bottom end.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277324-25-or-3-cannon/#findComment-4693992
Share on other sites

Cannon Muffler size you can have up to 4.5" or what ever size you want (Out Pipe) but the In Pipe must still say the same 2.5".

Yes, I know, everything has been answered except my question - out of a 2.5" or 3" cannon what would be better?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277324-25-or-3-cannon/#findComment-4694220
Share on other sites

Yes, I know, everything has been answered except my question - out of a 2.5" or 3" cannon what would be better?

Stick to 2.5".

2.5" straight through all the way.

Cuz your car is N/A, nothing over 2.5" other wise you lose back pressure (There is the correct name for "back pressure" but I can't remember...)

This is only for straight bolt on.

You can have a larger size pipe if you want but will requirer tuning.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277324-25-or-3-cannon/#findComment-4694241
Share on other sites

Stick to 2.5".

2.5" straight through all the way.

Cuz your car is N/A, nothing over 2.5" other wise you lose back pressure (There is the correct name for "back pressure" but I can't remember...)

This is only for straight bolt on.

You can have a larger size pipe if you want but will requirer tuning.

Volumetric efficiency.

Think of it as drinking with a thicker straw vs a thinner straw. Thicker straw takes more effort to get the drink (less low down torque), but once it starts flowing you can get more drink (top end power). With a thinner straw little effort is needed to get the drink flowing (more responsive low down torque) but the flow reaches its peak quickly (limited top end power). The volumetric efficiency refers to time it takes for the volume of the straw to fill with liquid. In real world terms with a car, this higher top end power sacrifices response and low end power which for day to day driving is generally better.

To take that analogy to another level, if you were entering a drinking competition and you had to choose a straw, which would you pick? The larger straw as once you fill the straw with liquid, the liquid will flow a greater amount. Likewise, if you're car is going to see the track more often, or higher revs more often, then a larger exhaust pipe diameter would be ideal as the top end power outweighs the need for bottom end power and torque.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277324-25-or-3-cannon/#findComment-4694502
Share on other sites

Stick to 2.5".

Cuz your car is N/A, nothing over 2.5" other wise you lose back pressure (There is the correct name for "back pressure" but I can't remember...)

Volumetric efficiency.

Think of it as drinking with a thicker straw vs a thinner straw. Thicker straw takes more effort to get the drink (less low down torque), but once it starts flowing you can get more drink (top end power). With a thinner straw little effort is needed to get the drink flowing (more responsive low down torque) but the flow reaches its peak quickly (limited top end power). The volumetric efficiency refers to time it takes for the volume of the straw to fill with liquid. In real world terms with a car, this higher top end power sacrifices response and low end power which for day to day driving is generally better.

To take that analogy to another level, if you were entering a drinking competition and you had to choose a straw, which would you pick? The larger straw as once you fill the straw with liquid, the liquid will flow a greater amount. Likewise, if you're car is going to see the track more often, or higher revs more often, then a larger exhaust pipe diameter would be ideal as the top end power outweighs the need for bottom end power and torque.

Sorry to disapoint, but backpressure is never your friend - this logic is so 1930's

I agree that a large system may cause you car to run poorly down low, but this is a tuning issue rateher than a volumetric issue.

On an NA, the science is to get all of the harmoniocs of the exhaust right. When correct and you can scavenge extra exhaust gasses out (due to a low pressure region forming at in the exhaust near the open valve) and hence draw in more clean air/fuel mix. (mor clean mix in means more bang)

It was this technology that made Yamaha so succesful with their bikes after WW2. This was the result of a merger between a german motorbike firm (that shot through after the war) and Yamaha (who specialised in musical instruments and hence harmonics.) They succesfully cracked the technology.

This is also where terms like "tuned length headers" comes from.

For another example, consider drag cars, they have large, short exhausts to minimise back pressure. Whist I agree they run much of the time at close to full throttle, they still cant afford to have a sluggish bottom end as the race is over too quickly for any part of the engine not to pull its own weight (if you will excuse the punn)

So, to answer your original question, the cannon is only for asthetics, so it wont matter what you put on so long as it wont restrict the rest of the system. I would go for a nice 3" (again asthetics) but you may want to have them tack it first so you can give it a short drive and see if you like the sound (differens 3" cannons will sound different and be quieter or louder depending upon the internals,) so just because 1 is too loud, wont neceseraly mean they all will be.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277324-25-or-3-cannon/#findComment-4694919
Share on other sites

Volumetric efficiency.

Think of it as drinking with a thicker straw vs a thinner straw. Thicker straw takes more effort to get the drink (less low down torque), but once it starts flowing you can get more drink (top end power). With a thinner straw little effort is needed to get the drink flowing (more responsive low down torque) but the flow reaches its peak quickly (limited top end power). The volumetric efficiency refers to time it takes for the volume of the straw to fill with liquid. In real world terms with a car, this higher top end power sacrifices response and low end power which for day to day driving is generally better.

To take that analogy to another level, if you were entering a drinking competition and you had to choose a straw, which would you pick? The larger straw as once you fill the straw with liquid, the liquid will flow a greater amount. Likewise, if you're car is going to see the track more often, or higher revs more often, then a larger exhaust pipe diameter would be ideal as the top end power outweighs the need for bottom end power and torque.

Ah yeah... "Volumetric Efficiency"... That's it.

The straw analogy puts it in simple terms and very understandable.

Sorry to disapoint, but backpressure is never your friend - this logic is so 1930's

I agree that a large system may cause you car to run poorly down low, but this is a tuning issue rateher than a volumetric issue.

On an NA, the science is to get all of the harmoniocs of the exhaust right. When correct and you can scavenge extra exhaust gasses out (due to a low pressure region forming at in the exhaust near the open valve) and hence draw in more clean air/fuel mix. (mor clean mix in means more bang)

It was this technology that made Yamaha so succesful with their bikes after WW2. This was the result of a merger between a german motorbike firm (that shot through after the war) and Yamaha (who specialised in musical instruments and hence harmonics.) They succesfully cracked the technology.

This is also where terms like "tuned length headers" comes from.

For another example, consider drag cars, they have large, short exhausts to minimise back pressure. Whist I agree they run much of the time at close to full throttle, they still cant afford to have a sluggish bottom end as the race is over too quickly for any part of the engine not to pull its own weight (if you will excuse the punn)

So, to answer your original question, the cannon is only for asthetics, so it wont matter what you put on so long as it wont restrict the rest of the system. I would go for a nice 3" (again asthetics) but you may want to have them tack it first so you can give it a short drive and see if you like the sound (differens 3" cannons will sound different and be quieter or louder depending upon the internals,) so just because 1 is too loud, wont neceseraly mean they all will be.

I see...

So basically if your N/A car sees a lot of track of track days with plenty of full throttle, still a larger diametre exhaust will well a lot at top end, but keeping in mine not to sacrifice low down.

So in Jack- 's case if it is just for street / daily 3" still ok?

Thanks for that info fellas!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/277324-25-or-3-cannon/#findComment-4695018
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...