Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep just a regular automatic gearbox, 5 speed tiptronic.

If you are thinking about getting one I suggest investing a small amount of money in an aftermarket transmission cooler also.

and a fuel tanker. I was given two car back in Oct last year and they chewed a $50 note qiute quickly. great car jsut a bit thirsty for my liking.

  • 3 years later...

1997 Legnum VR-4 5 speed Automatic

INVECS II was based on Porsche's Tip-tronic semi-automatic tranmission technology. As with Porsche's version it allowed for either a fully automatic mode, or a clutchless semi-automatic mode if the driver wished to control the up- and down-shift points. It also offered the same Adaptive Shift Control software which monitored and "learned" the driver's habits over time and adjusted the smoothness or aggression of the gearshifts to suit his or her driving style..

I'd recommend going with a manual car (mine was manual and it was definitely the right choice). The auto trannys are not the most reliable thing in stock form. A tranny cooling system does appear to help, but I don't know to what extent. Have a look at ozvr4.com and read through all the auto cars that have experienced problems for an idea on how many problems owners may face.

Be aware though that the ratios on the manual cars are VERY short, which can make it annoying to drive because you'll be shifting gears very often e.g. you'll need to change to third before hitting 100kmh (that's right, second gear tops out somewhere around 90-95 kph). From memory, 5th gears sits around 3000rpm at 100kph, so the freeway fuel use isn't much better than what you'll get around town. And yes, they do drink (and it has to be 98 RON or they'll detonate I believe). You won't be getting better than 12L/100km around town. TT V6 + heavy wagon is never going to be a fuel efficient combination.

If you can get a clean manual version then you'll be on a winner. They are a good car despite my comments above. They're quick, comfortable, handle well, are lots of fun and are a realy good compromise between practicality and performance.

80% of the trans problems are because the cars have travelled 100,000km more than what they say on the odometer reading, combined with a complete lack of servicing from the owner in Japan.

Buy a car with legit low kms and change the fluid regularly and they're no less reliable than any other auto trans. If you want to tow with it, add the cooler.

Having owned a variety of Legnums and other cars, I can tell you they're less thirsty than virtually all other turbo cars I've owned. My old man had his down around 8.5l/100km and that was town driving too. No problems at all with detonation ever, and I owned my Galant back when 95RON was the only option.

Chris Rogers has forgotten how much fuel turbo cars use, presumably because his R32 is still stuck in the shed and he's driving a Hyundai shitbox or similar :P

Edited by Iron Chef

How the heck did he get such good economy???

80% of the trans problems are because the cars have travelled 100,000km more than what they say on the odometer reading, combined with a complete lack of servicing from the owner in Japan.

Buy a car with legit low kms and change the fluid regularly and they're no less reliable than any other auto trans. If you want to tow with it, add the cooler.

Having owned a variety of Legnums and other cars, I can tell you they're less thirsty than virtually all other turbo cars I've owned. My old man had his down around 8.5l/100km and that was town driving too. No problems at all with detonation ever, and I owned my Galant back when 95RON was the only option.

Chris Rogers has forgotten how much fuel turbo cars use, presumably because his R32 is still stuck in the shed and he's driving a Hyundai shitbox or similar :P

Chris Rogers has forgotten how much fuel turbo cars use, presumably because his R32 is still stuck in the shed and he's driving a Hyundai shitbox or similar :P

That van surprised many a person ;)

Chris Rogers has forgotten how much fuel turbo cars use, presumably because his R32 is still stuck in the shed and he's driving a Hyundai shitbox or similar :P

bite me.. :P

at the time of posting I had a white S1 and black s2 to compare with.. carmen imports gave me both to rework navi. I also owned a twin turbo subaru that had an appetite if I booted it.

always had my van and that surprises a few people.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...