Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep just a regular automatic gearbox, 5 speed tiptronic.

If you are thinking about getting one I suggest investing a small amount of money in an aftermarket transmission cooler also.

and a fuel tanker. I was given two car back in Oct last year and they chewed a $50 note qiute quickly. great car jsut a bit thirsty for my liking.

  • 3 years later...

1997 Legnum VR-4 5 speed Automatic

INVECS II was based on Porsche's Tip-tronic semi-automatic tranmission technology. As with Porsche's version it allowed for either a fully automatic mode, or a clutchless semi-automatic mode if the driver wished to control the up- and down-shift points. It also offered the same Adaptive Shift Control software which monitored and "learned" the driver's habits over time and adjusted the smoothness or aggression of the gearshifts to suit his or her driving style..

I'd recommend going with a manual car (mine was manual and it was definitely the right choice). The auto trannys are not the most reliable thing in stock form. A tranny cooling system does appear to help, but I don't know to what extent. Have a look at ozvr4.com and read through all the auto cars that have experienced problems for an idea on how many problems owners may face.

Be aware though that the ratios on the manual cars are VERY short, which can make it annoying to drive because you'll be shifting gears very often e.g. you'll need to change to third before hitting 100kmh (that's right, second gear tops out somewhere around 90-95 kph). From memory, 5th gears sits around 3000rpm at 100kph, so the freeway fuel use isn't much better than what you'll get around town. And yes, they do drink (and it has to be 98 RON or they'll detonate I believe). You won't be getting better than 12L/100km around town. TT V6 + heavy wagon is never going to be a fuel efficient combination.

If you can get a clean manual version then you'll be on a winner. They are a good car despite my comments above. They're quick, comfortable, handle well, are lots of fun and are a realy good compromise between practicality and performance.

80% of the trans problems are because the cars have travelled 100,000km more than what they say on the odometer reading, combined with a complete lack of servicing from the owner in Japan.

Buy a car with legit low kms and change the fluid regularly and they're no less reliable than any other auto trans. If you want to tow with it, add the cooler.

Having owned a variety of Legnums and other cars, I can tell you they're less thirsty than virtually all other turbo cars I've owned. My old man had his down around 8.5l/100km and that was town driving too. No problems at all with detonation ever, and I owned my Galant back when 95RON was the only option.

Chris Rogers has forgotten how much fuel turbo cars use, presumably because his R32 is still stuck in the shed and he's driving a Hyundai shitbox or similar :P

Edited by Iron Chef

How the heck did he get such good economy???

80% of the trans problems are because the cars have travelled 100,000km more than what they say on the odometer reading, combined with a complete lack of servicing from the owner in Japan.

Buy a car with legit low kms and change the fluid regularly and they're no less reliable than any other auto trans. If you want to tow with it, add the cooler.

Having owned a variety of Legnums and other cars, I can tell you they're less thirsty than virtually all other turbo cars I've owned. My old man had his down around 8.5l/100km and that was town driving too. No problems at all with detonation ever, and I owned my Galant back when 95RON was the only option.

Chris Rogers has forgotten how much fuel turbo cars use, presumably because his R32 is still stuck in the shed and he's driving a Hyundai shitbox or similar :P

Chris Rogers has forgotten how much fuel turbo cars use, presumably because his R32 is still stuck in the shed and he's driving a Hyundai shitbox or similar :P

That van surprised many a person ;)

Chris Rogers has forgotten how much fuel turbo cars use, presumably because his R32 is still stuck in the shed and he's driving a Hyundai shitbox or similar :P

bite me.. :P

at the time of posting I had a white S1 and black s2 to compare with.. carmen imports gave me both to rework navi. I also owned a twin turbo subaru that had an appetite if I booted it.

always had my van and that surprises a few people.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...