Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys quick and simple one hopefully :)

Just wondering if any-1 could tell me roughly how much the engine can handle KW wise, car's getting tuned in the next few weeks and i dont want to push it to far. Internals are standard how much will they be able to handle etc ?

Thanks Ian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278076-rb25det-neo/
Share on other sites

Garret 3076R

Powertune steampipe manifold

Apexi power FC

Cooling pro intercooler

Splitfires

Xforce exhaust

K&N pod

Z32 AFM

Tial 44mm wastegate

Bosch 040

Sard 800cc injectors

Turbotech boost controller

I's thinking maybe fuel pump will max out before I have to worry about internals ? but be good to still know what internals can handle stock :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278076-rb25det-neo/#findComment-4700343
Share on other sites

dayyyyuuummmm quite the mods list there.

look its a touchy subject with how much can standard engine take, it all comes down to the tune prodominantly..but some ppl on here have had there neo up to about 280 rwkw...which is a lot of power difference from there factory spec 160rwkw.

so really it comes down to how risky ur keen to be...just make sure that tunes got good afr's and your not throwing too much boost...personally more then 18 psi from a turbo of your size.

but more comes down to the tune.

goodluck...im currently on the same avenue.

btw y would u change your fuel pump?? its an 040 good for almost 500hp.

Edited by allthewaytotheskyline
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278076-rb25det-neo/#findComment-4700521
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...