Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Quick question.

Thinking about putting a new engine together as a part time project,

I have a set of 8.5:1 Comp forged rb25 pistons and im thinging of using a GTR crank and rods in a RB25 block,

I know the longer stroke will increase the comp ratio but by how much (assume standard thickness head gasket)

I think I worked it out to be 8.8:1 but not sure if I worked it out properly.

Cheers

Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278080-gtr-crank-rods-rb25-pistons/
Share on other sites

2mm extra stroke = 1mm extra piston rise. So they might be OK depending on where the rings are located in the RB25 pistons and how thick their piston crown is. Machining 1 mm of the piston crown is no big deal for most forged pistons.

Cheers

Gary

Oh I see, I confused myself lol

I have 6mm between the top ring and the base of the piston crown (not the domed part)

I should have measured it before i pulled the engine down

Good luck with that one. I forsee a long future of huge problems for you with this. I hope it all works out but personally I would advise against it considering you can easily get the correct piston for the job.

By taking 1mm off the piston you will be altering the design of the crown. You can have it machined to be identical but by the time you've done it and stuffed around for a couple of weeks, you would easily be half way to a new set. You also reduce the amount of material on the top of the piston which is not such a good idea. It is possible to do it and most manufacturers leave some room to move but it's better if you don't, if you don't have to.

When it is all done and finished, you will be bitterly disappointed with the result as it won't give you 2/5ths of f**k all benefit.

Your cheap stroker will turn into an expensive waste of time.

Good luck with that one. I forsee a long future of huge problems for you with this. I hope it all works out but personally I would advise against it considering you can easily get the correct piston for the job.

By taking 1mm off the piston you will be altering the design of the crown. You can have it machined to be identical but by the time you've done it and stuffed around for a couple of weeks, you would easily be half way to a new set. You also reduce the amount of material on the top of the piston which is not such a good idea. It is possible to do it and most manufacturers leave some room to move but it's better if you don't, if you don't have to.

When it is all done and finished, you will be bitterly disappointed with the result as it won't give you 2/5ths of f**k all benefit.

Your cheap stroker will turn into an expensive waste of time.

Yeah thats what I figured, I was only really looking at it due to the fact that R33 rb26 cranks already have the large oil pump drive and buying a 2nd hand GTR crank would've been around the same cost as having a crank collar fitted to a 25 crank.

cheers for the advise though :(

Prob with that is...im closer to canberra and cbf sending a crank to QLD and back

lol, I see your dilema.

Have you considered getting it done by someone in Canberra? That's a normal price. The collar can be shipped to you for little over $100 and your engineer will have no problems fitting it. ~$100-$140

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...