Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Well i recently bought a 34 GTT, it was factory optioned with 8 speakers.

My issue is that the 2 rear speakers over the top of the boot..(subwoofers?) have been removed. I just have the covers sitting there with a female plug connection going to one of the speaker covers.

Anyway, I don't really know much about car audio/speakers. And I just need to know what was there originally so I can replace them.

Cheers,

Rohan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278526-r34-rear-speakers/
Share on other sites

Oh ok, well I'd be happy with stock speakers to be honest, hopefully I can find some that fit.

I am actually really happy with the sound quality. And I'll be honest and say I didn't notice the missing speakers for a bout a week until I started to wonder why I couldn't hear anything coming from the back. :thumbsup:

One other thing, The one female plug adaptor, will that service both speakers?

Sorry for the noob questions, never messed about with car audio before.

Hey Jack, I just had a quick look and found the other connection for the other speaker fitting.

One has a 4 pin plug like ( .... ) the other side has a 10 pin plug like ( :::.:: ) or something like that.

well the 10 pin plug is defenantly not the one you want.did you unplug that from anything or was it just hanging under the parcel shelf? there is a computer mounted under the rear shelf which it should be pluged into from memory, check the little box thats mounted under the shelf and see if it has anything pluged into the plug onthe side of it.

Are you able to take a picture of the 4 pin plug for me?

well the 10 pin plug is defenantly not the one you want.did you unplug that from anything or was it just hanging under the parcel shelf? there is a computer mounted under the rear shelf which it should be pluged into from memory, check the little box thats mounted under the shelf and see if it has anything pluged into the plug onthe side of it.

Are you able to take a picture of the 4 pin plug for me?

Yeah mate I will.

I'll take a pic of both and report back tomorrow afternoon :thumbsup:

Cheers for the help.

No probs man.

off the top of my head the rear speaker wires should be

Rear Left neg = Black with pink stripe

Rear Left pos = Orange

Rear Right neg = Grey with red stripe

Rear Right pos = Grey

not 100% tho,its too late at night to think lol.

cant really tell where the 4 pin plug is from in then pics.the 10 pin i think is from the computer mounted under the parcel shelf.have a check on the side of that and see if there is anything pluged into it. on the 4 pin plug cross check the wire colours of that to the wire colours i posted abit further up and see if they match up.if they do then thats ya man if not then have a hunt around under the parcel self and see if you can locate them, they may have been tucked up under the parcel shelf (inbetween the steel part and the plastic part you actually remove).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...