Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

u can get it for around $500 or less if u get it off nissansilvia.com, or even a trader off here will have a deal that is cheaper than what u have been quoted b4. off the top of my head for the same clutch u mentioned it was about $496 + $20 postage off ns.com

" Pressure plates and clutch plates provided with these clutches are oem bundled released direct from Daiken, RPM or Seco and are not Pink or Purple like the boxed Exedy items unless listed as Exedy."

Make sure you get EXEDY .. I only use the pink clutch covers with pink cushioned button clutch plate

I'm running 360hp in mine with a twin plate clutch, handles beautifully. Though every once in a while it does grind a little heh, fkn noisy twin plates...

Was looking at getting one of these if mine ever fries.... http://www.nengun.com/exedy/hyper-carbon-c...in-plate-clutch mmz.

Tenegah have a deal on supply and fitting of genuine Exedy's

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ex...rt-t279096.html

Be very careful of some of those "too good to be true" prices, as quite often they use some non-genuine parts in there kits.

^^ sounds good to me, am i doing any damage to my car driving it with a very slipy clutch? dont have the funds to buy 1 for a couple of weeks

cheers

You won't be doing much damage, but don't drive it too hard. Tenegah will have your standard flywheel faced, so it should be as good as new :D

i remember a thread created by someone who discussed all the different types of clutches with their pro's and con's. anyone know where this has gone???

i need a new clutch for rb20 and heard twin plates faark rb20 gearbox's so researching on whats best

anyway ideas???

I've got an Rb20 turbo 5spd in my ceffy, and i can tell you that if i had a twin-plate, i'd be on the side of the road still. a single plate heavy duty organic is the go for that particular gearbox.

ring auto clutch in osborne park. got one of his clutches behind my 25, feals like standard and takes anything stock internals can throw at it for around $300-350 with machined flywheel, thrust bearing and spigot bush

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...