Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbo Timers M35


jpave
 Share

Recommended Posts

Im getting one installed next week and dont have one yet and was thinking ill just get the workshop to buy and fit it

What does paying for a good one get you... like all they do is keep the ignition running with a timer there cant be that much to them?

also has anyone got pics of where they have theres mounted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

do you really need a turbo timer? this is my opinion, but unless you hammer the crap out of your car every day and switch it off straight away, you dont need it. its a waste of money.

when ur driving home (or to work) just take it easy the last few mins of driving. then dont turn off the engine till you got all your crap out of the car. there, free turbo timer!

plus with todays water cooled turbos, a TT does nothing really

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 for above post . i actually have 3 turbo timers sitting in a drawer ( including a nice g reddy one and a hks type 0) and yeah after i though about i dont want one .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

do you really need a turbo timer? this is my opinion, but unless you hammer the crap out of your car every day and switch it off straight away, you dont need it. its a waste of money.

when ur driving home (or to work) just take it easy the last few mins of driving. then dont turn off the engine till you got all your crap out of the car. there, free turbo timer!

plus with todays water cooled turbos, a TT does nothing really

Could not agree more :)

then thats a bonus. just remember, depending on what state you live in (possibly all) leaving a car running with no one in it is illegal.

Not to mention a TT leaves the the ignition vulnerable (wires from ignition to TT).

MANY cases of imports being stolen in Vic due to TT's being cut and car "hotwired" and driven away... not cool.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 for TT's being a waste of money.

I had one on a silvia turbo but it was just annoying. The usefulness on a water-cooled ball-bearing turbo is debatable...and as already stated above, all you need to do is be aware of how you drive for the last few minutes of your trip.

And if you do need it to cool down, which if you do the above will be rare, just sit in the car a bit longer when you stop. Most turbo timers are set to only 1 minute anyway, so its not like you'll be waiting long.

I've been told that when driving on the highway, and you pull into a servo, its wise to let it cool before turning the engine off...not sure how important this is since highway driving doesn't usually work the turbo very hard at all...but all the same - I've done a few interstate trips and when I stop at a servo I'll just pull over somewhere for about a minute before pulling up to the pump. for what its worth...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i do the same thing on long trips or highway driving.......

also, i had a TT on my S15. i dont know how many times i left my lights on with the TT running and came back to a flat battery. while the ignition is on, the headlight warning (and others) wont work..........

i ended up leaving it in the car but turned off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey guys just to throw a spanner in the works. i've got a gready turbo timer. i just leave it set to auto. n after driving approx 20 minutes to work it wants to idle for round 1 minute. where as if i drive less it just idles for the minimum i have it set too which is thirty secs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, as Iain said, TT's are illegal in NSW (and will therefore void your insurance if the car is stolen), so check your state's regulations if you still intend to get one.

Instead of a turbo timer, get yourself an exhaust temperature guage installed. I usually wait until mine's down to below 350deg before I switch the engine off, which is where I've noticed it's usually at after a gentle cruise before I stop somewhere.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

actually you ARE covered if your car is stolen with a TT and its running. theft is theft, you can leave your key in the car and youre covered. because unless you give the person permission, they have stolen the car :P

anyway, but there is less of a chance of your car being stolen. but if it installed correctly, the engine will stop if the handbrake is disengaged or the clutch pedal pushed.......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got me one of these bad boys and it's mounted just above the air vent on the right hand side of the steering column

apexi_timer_copy4.jpg

if it hadn't have been for this thing's voltmeter flashing I would have been oblivious to the radiator incident I had recently whereby the fan shat the belt driving the alternator

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I do not think that the return pipe could be the cause of your particular troubles, unless perchance it is leaking in a lot of unfiltered and unmetered air (assuming your ECU is still using AFMs). And then it could be very bad, but it shouldn't prevent you making boost. Blow then engine up from running lean? Sure. But it would make boost. You really needed to disconnect this thing from the turbo inlets and close those inlet ports off a year ago, and you should do it now.
    • Pressure Ratio = 2. ie, 1 bar of boost (assuming 1 bat absolute pressure at the compressor inlet). This is relevant because compressor maps do not have "boost" up the y-axis. They have pressure ratio.
    • Revisiting this thread again x2... 1 year later. This car has been an ongoing project between life. But, I never removed the re-circ pipe. I know, shame on me. But since then, i took it to get tuned and only making about 280hp (lame) and i'm chasing a boost issue where the car wont boost past 7-8psi. Mac valve installed. Haltech Platinum pro with the map sensor.  This is the first time i've tackled the turbo side of things, but i have that side somewhat taken apart to chase the waste gate vacuum lines. And noticed this stupid pipe again. I'm peicing together the puzzle and @GTSBoy mentioned that it was a big vaccuum chamber and said a bunch of car math stuff that I couldn't quite follow the car math (im trying). You guys think this would be the culprit? between rotting vacuum hoses?  i'm making a DIY boost leak tester this weekend. 
    • I just spent a silly amount of time reading other forums' posts and watching "whats this noise" videos on Youtube. It *appears* to be the front diff having killed a pinion bearing or similar. Its almost definitely driveline, I haven't tested to see if the car makes the noise in N though but either way I think it's gonna be pricey. This is outside my area of comfort and expertise so I'll get my BMW guys on it. The bearings are attached to the hubs so are super easy to replace (at least in comparison to press in bearings) so I'll do them also. 
×
×
  • Create New...