Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

ive had a search around the forum but i cant really find the answer to my problems

my second cylinder aint firing on my rb20det :banana: i know this bcoz when i go along and unplug each coilpack, the second one is the only one which doesnt change the cars idling rate

so i started by swappin all my plugs around, and shes still missin on that 2nd cylinder

swapped coilpacks over, still missin

now the only other thing im guessing is whether the injector on that cylinder may be blocked, so i ran some injector cleaner through my car, didnt work

tired another brand of injector cleaner, didnt work

so im hoping its that injector which is fluffed, my question IS - what else could it be if its not the injector?

also, if im to swap to different injectors, which ones are the best to go with?

im kinda leaning towards gtr's with a resistor pack, but i dunno whether more cc's are better or high and low impedence is better

i am lost, sorry moderators if there is a thread similar, i wasnt able to find one

im hoping im not up for big dollars to fix something internal... >_>

Edited by fourdoorlove
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279493-why-is-my-rb-spittin/
Share on other sites

ditto.

i had the same problem , turned out to be the loom plug that goes onto the coil....\

look around for any cracks.....take it apart and rewire it if u have too...

shouldnt be anything sinister...

GL

Do you have power at the injector plug? I think it's called a noid light.... plugs onto the injector plug (take it off the injector first) and the light pulses with injector operation....kinda crappy explanation, but yeah....

Take your plug out of the cylinder, start the car, see if it sparks......

if it sparks u know its not ur loom , coil , plug.

put a test light to ur injector plug, start car if the light comes on when the injector fires its good.

(ps dont take ur injector plug off ur injector. just push the test light into the back of the plug.)

the only other thing i can think off is that the fpr is f**ked , its running too low a fuel pressure... and ur high idle is from a lean mixture....

can you adjust ur idle on ur aac?????

check ur fuel pressure, maybe try another reg.

Maybe a big air leak some where????

GL

ill try the test light theory..

ive just installed a new fpr and its running at around 70-75psi

it was still doing the same thing on the standard fpr, so i dnt think its that

a mechanic friend of mine said its most likely the injector that is not working or is blocked, but ive ran two diff types of injector cleaner through it and still no result

if u think its the injector just swap it with another cylinder....

pull cyl 2 and 3 and put 2 into 3 and vice versa... that will tell u if the injector is f*ked

i pulled the coil and plug out and ran an earth wire to the body from the plug and pluged everthing together.....

turn it ova while some1 whatches the spark... if it sparks.. its all good... if it doesnt ,,,, well thats that....

GL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
    • street use or race track, what hose size and why? what factors change with the hose size options ?   see most comon is an10. when you see most oem external coolers are closer to an12? does high volume oil pump like nitto need an12 or 10 be just fine
    • The rod I was moving left and right you can see looking from the passenger side floor up into the center console.  IMG_8095.mov
×
×
  • Create New...