Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day,

I'm after a 2 door, manual Gtst or GTT. I've wanted a Skyline for a while, but have been trying to get some savings first--just been driving around in an econobox. That was boring me to tears, so I looked into a novated lease, but the only car that I kinda liked was the 09 WRX. Great for practicality (can actually put a mountain bike in there), but pretty expensive compared to a Skyline--about $70 000 after tax to own the car after three years inc. running costs (I'm thinking a Skyline should be about half....but maybe I'm wrong).

Anyway, I'm after something that parts & servicing won't be too expensive for--I'd like to get into track days and not have to worry about how much things will cost to replace.

I'm guessing 34s will be a little more in that department, but I'm a big fan of their looks and maybe they'll be a bit more reliable.

However, I don't know anything about them and am a bit of a noob when it comes to shopping for one. Main things I mean are whether there is a particular year to go for (ie is there a series 1 and 2 in the 34s, or a year model where things were improved).

33 is appealing for the price they are going for, however I'm thinking the 34 could be worth paying extra for (thinking around $20-22000)>

BTW, 09 WRX is infinitely more practical for me--ticks all the boxes in terms of being able to fit all my shite in. I've driven one & it was pretty sweet, however the looks just aren't me. If I bought one it would definitely have to grow on me. +I've always wanted a Skyline...never really dreamed of a Rex, so it would be a bit of a compromise. Can't really see myself taking a brand new $45k car on track days either....

Any advice or opinions would be great. Basically what I'm asking is whether the 34 is worth the extra dosh, and for any tips on what to look for...

Cheers!

In the price range of an R34 GTT you could be looking at an R33 GTR... which hands down is much better than the GTT - AWD, RB26DETT and is a GTR.

If you read his post a bit more closely you would have noticed the following:

I'm after something that parts & servicing won't be too expensive for--I'd like to get into track days and not have to worry about how much things will cost to replace.

R33 GTR that may see some track time is NOT going to be cheap.

and a $20k 33 gtr is going to be nothing short of horrendous

+1

Basically what I'm asking is whether the 34 is worth the extra dosh, and for any tips on what to look for...

I would deffinately say the R34 is worth the extra cash if you can afford it.

mate the 09 WRX is a fantastic car to drive day in and day out could not ask for anything more in a daily driver. rang off some pretty impressive times in the last MOTOR edition it won best bang for your buck for 2009 beating a big diverse line up of cars under 100k and reeling off a 0-100 in 5.5 seconds, 13.6 quarter and 1:11 around wakefield park IN THE WET !!!

i had a 98 40th anniversary series 2 GTS-T before the rex and from experience i would shoot for the newer model (ie R34). mine was extremely difficult to sell in the end and will be a nightmare for you when you eventually want to move on to a brand new car.

My R32 GTR has been the most horrendously expensive car I have ever owned. Bar none.

However, every other car that I have ever owned COMBINED has not brought me half as much pleasure as it has. There is a good reason why it has it's reputation.

Even an easy cruise down to the local shops provides a pleasure hard to describe to anybody who hasn't driven one, and my personal opinion is that driving anything else is robbing yourself of that pleasure.

My vote is the GTR, regardless of age.

However, if you wanted to be sure, I would recommend TEST-DRIVING them all, then making your decision. Research will only convey a small amount of a car's true potential.

Edited by DarkGT-R

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...