Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi folks,

new to the site. Rebuilding a r32 gtst. Its going away to the body shop shortly and just need to get a set of rims for it. Budget is about $2000 including tyres. Just want something nice to look at because we have a set of wheels already for the track.

We had never heard of Te37s untill we found replicas in a shop window but they seem to be the kinda wheel we want. And liking the ROTA P45Rs. But cant afford these at the mo. We deffo want white wheels.

can anyone suggest any others that might fit the bill other than the te37 reps and has anyone got te37 rep on their car???

Thanks for the help guys.

Katie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279913-what-rims/
Share on other sites

Hi Katie and welcome.

I've got Ozzy Tyres 032s for my 32 gtst. Mine are 18x8 all round but plan to put 18x7.5 on the front when I can afford them, just so the tyres protect the rim better.

I run 225/40 on front and 235/40 rear if your interested. :D

The pics are old ones, but I hope they give you an idea.

post-59380-1248078970_thumb.jpg

post-59380-1248079115_thumb.jpg

post-59380-1248079270_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279913-what-rims/#findComment-4724650
Share on other sites

White Work Emotion Cr Kai's look very nice. if I was going with a white wheel (which I almost decided on) it would be this one.

img_1889.jpg

0.70966200%201180352505_131.jpg

And you can get them with or without the stickers.

Do it, it'll look killer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279913-what-rims/#findComment-4725230
Share on other sites

Great choice for white. They look sexy on white cars. Like what Hank Scorpio said, your best bet would be Work CR KAI for your budget (but they're quite rare, the bronze 18s are normally around the 1.8k mark). Or you can try replicas/rota. But for 32s, I would recommend smaller spokes (CR Kai and the likes) due to the slickness of the car. The fatter spokes look better on fatter cars in general.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279913-what-rims/#findComment-4725435
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, some lovely wheels there. The car in question is blue, like THIS COLOUR. and its getting a vertex kit on it. The vertex kit seems to be pretty common out here but we plan on taking the car home and ive never seen a vertex kit there so that made our minds up. We were looking for the final konnection kit but couldnt get it made anywhere anyway what im trying to say is that the car isnt a straight and clean cut at the standard kit, its a bit more funky so thats why we thought the te37s looked good.

Has anyone any advise on the te37 reps? We have been quoted $1550 incl tyres, does that sound about right or did they hear the accent and try to rip us off?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279913-what-rims/#findComment-4725516
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, some lovely wheels there. The car in question is blue, like THIS COLOUR. and its getting a vertex kit on it. The vertex kit seems to be pretty common out here but we plan on taking the car home and ive never seen a vertex kit there so that made our minds up. We were looking for the final konnection kit but couldnt get it made anywhere anyway what im trying to say is that the car isnt a straight and clean cut at the standard kit, its a bit more funky so thats why we thought the te37s looked good.

Has anyone any advise on the te37 reps? We have been quoted $1550 incl tyres, does that sound about right or did they hear the accent and try to rip us off?

Haven't heard of Rays Engineering Volk Racing TE37 wheels?! :P:D

One of the best wheels to come from Japan! :D

Yes there are fake TE37's and they will have Ravs Engineering Vork Racing Wheels - http://fakewheels.com/2009/04/vork-wheels-...ngineering-wtf/

When you were quoted $1550 incl tyres, were they the fake TE37's?

IF so that sounds ok...

New genuine TE37's can easily go for $3000+ a set of 4 wheels on its own, no tyres.

If your going drifting, get the fakes so you can thrash those around as you don't want to rip up the good genuine wheels.

White wheels will look good on Blue car.

I got white TE37's on Grey car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279913-what-rims/#findComment-4725825
Share on other sites

Yea. Just go to www.nengun.com for some price indications for geniune Rays' wheel if you're interested. As the TE37 are 1 piece forged, they will be 1 of the top end product. As Skyline mention, I too agree 1550 incl. tyres are pretty good but then again, the quality of tyre plays a big part as well.

Currently I'm having LMGT4 with 285/35/18 bridgestone potenza which I bought from a guy in the forum. I didnt know the price of those tyres until I someone mention those rims would cost technically 1k with those tyres (those tyres are worth around 700each brand new and I paid 3.3k in total for the wheel). So even though it might sound like a good deal, just make sure those are quality tyres as I've said to everyone, your life depends on those rubber.

Skyline: I want your TE37!

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279913-what-rims/#findComment-4725988
Share on other sites

Yea. Just go to www.nengun.com for some price indications for geniune Rays' wheel if you're interested. As the TE37 are 1 piece forged, they will be 1 of the top end product. As Skyline mention, I too agree 1550 incl. tyres are pretty good but then again, the quality of tyre plays a big part as well.

Currently I'm having LMGT4 with 285/35/18 bridgestone potenza which I bought from a guy in the forum. I didnt know the price of those tyres until I someone mention those rims would cost technically 1k with those tyres (those tyres are worth around 700each brand new and I paid 3.3k in total for the wheel). So even though it might sound like a good deal, just make sure those are quality tyres as I've said to everyone, your life depends on those rubber.

Skyline: I want your TE37!

Cheers!

Yeah I went to the Nengun website to check prices out too as it is pretty good and in AUS Dollars.

:)

You want my TE37's... I guess we can sawp as I love LMGT4's.

You have Nismo LMGT4's!!!

They are the best wheels ever! Even though our wheels are made by the same company...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279913-what-rims/#findComment-4726505
Share on other sites

Oh they are lovely too, what ball park price are they? We want 18s aswell.

Thanks for all the help aswell people. Some really nice options.

Not sure because my car came from Japan with them, but locally I think around 1800 with tires

in staggered fitment18"... 8.5 front, 9.5 rear with 38 offset I think, or maybe 83...something like that anyway.. fills the guards perfect without the cops giving you a second look, plus they clean up easy as hell

mine have blue alloy lug nuts , blue valve stems, to go with blue rotors and blue RDA disks so doesnt look too bad

245 on the front and 265 in the rear fit without ghey looking stretch

photo before I repainted the GT logo blue instead of red from factory

Edited by sapphiregraphics
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279913-what-rims/#findComment-4727832
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...