Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone has one instatted in any car, but particularly a RS4 Stagea.

I've got a few questions

1. How many press/temp sensors can you add?

2. Does it come with any pressure sensors or anything standard?

3. What exactly does it display strait out of the box?

4. I basically want to display, oil press, water temp, boost pressure, knock. Is this possible with this unit, or is there a better option?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280296-blitz-r-vit/
Share on other sites

Just wondering if anyone has one instatted in any car, but particularly a RS4 Stagea.

I've got a few questions

1. How many press/temp sensors can you add?

2. Does it come with any pressure sensors or anything standard?

3. What exactly does it display strait out of the box?

4. I basically want to display, oil press, water temp, boost pressure, knock. Is this possible with this unit, or is there a better option?

I got a Blitz r-vit TypeII in my r32 skyline.

It plugs into the consult port near the fuses.

It only shows ECU details.

Doesnt have any external sensors, only reads ecu information. (no different to plugging a laptop with consult cable)

Displays all sensors which the ecu reads;

water temp, afm voltage, o2 voltage, injector duty cycle, ignition timing, battery voltage, speed, rpm

In regards to question 4, you are after a single unit which can display external sensors for water temp, oil press, boost press etc.

Only option ive found on the internet is Defi Link - http://www.nengun.com/defi/link-display

Although after buying all the sensors etc, it will set you back close to $1k :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280296-blitz-r-vit/#findComment-4729129
Share on other sites

Displays all sensors which the ecu reads;

water temp, afm voltage, o2 voltage, injector duty cycle, ignition timing, battery voltage, speed, rpm

So does it display knock values? I know the computer sees them but I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere.

A Blitz unit looks like the pick of the ones on nengun for me. The Blitz MMD might be a goer with the boost sensor, included. Not sure on the differences between all the different units. The MMD with another pressure sensor would probably do the trick.

I'd go ask at my local supplier, but that's AutoBahn, they wouldn't have a clue.

Why the hell didn't the stag come with an oil pressure guage anyway!!! It doesn't already have a sensor does it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280296-blitz-r-vit/#findComment-4730842
Share on other sites

So does it display knock values? I know the computer sees them but I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere.

A Blitz unit looks like the pick of the ones on nengun for me. The Blitz MMD might be a goer with the boost sensor, included. Not sure on the differences between all the different units. The MMD with another pressure sensor would probably do the trick.

I'd go ask at my local supplier, but that's AutoBahn, they wouldn't have a clue.

Why the hell didn't the stag come with an oil pressure guage anyway!!! It doesn't already have a sensor does it?

only shows ignition timing degree value thats all.

Also, the blitz r-vit only works on standard ecu's. If you have a powerFC it wont work.

If you're using a standard ecu, they have knock protection anyways and will switch to safe map if anything goes wrong.

The blitz r-vit also works with chipped standard ecu's such as nistune (where you can tune the knock map to protect car etc)

Else the powerfc, i believe, shows knock reading and flashing light but thats all you get. No safe map switching as standard ecu

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280296-blitz-r-vit/#findComment-4730891
Share on other sites

there was a guy on here called newKleer or something like that

he made a 4 chan temp monitor - have a search .. looked pretty good

that was mearcat. i think thread for it is still in group buy forum, probably closed by now.

So does it display knock values? I know the computer sees them but I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere.

nope, consult doesnt give u knock reading, neither does it have oil temp or oil pressure or boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280296-blitz-r-vit/#findComment-4731159
Share on other sites

I've got an Emanage, not sure what sort of knock protection it has. Are there any tricky guage mounting options for a stagea with a factory tv setup?

you can get 3 guage pods that sit ontop of the dash above the centre vent that look pretty nice

i've also got some guages here if you're looking for some :blush:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280296-blitz-r-vit/#findComment-4731557
Share on other sites

the mrs and i are highly interested in gauge mounting position too mate. if yu come up with something that isn't obtrusive, doesn't take away a vent, doesn't block the clock and is still easy enough to see whilst driving, let me know, lol. i'll keep looking and return the favour if you want :blush: how many gauges are you looking at having and what size faces?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280296-blitz-r-vit/#findComment-4731639
Share on other sites

you can also get guage plates that mount where the passenger side airbag is, fairly popular in japan but i wouldn't recommend it. you can always mount the guages in the glove box, leave it open when you want to see them and keep it closed when you don't want anyone else too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280296-blitz-r-vit/#findComment-4732034
Share on other sites

haha, i could see the passenger airbag thing being pretty disasterous :P

so far we're thinking 1 near the a pillar, 2 in the ash tray (not quite too sure how we're gonna achieve that mean feat, but we'll see how we go) and the 4th one in the glove box... still early days yet though. noone makes cars to hold gauges!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280296-blitz-r-vit/#findComment-4732458
Share on other sites

What guages heve you got MIKE?

I was thinking about making up a panel that covers the ash tray and cig lighter to take 3 or 4 52-60mm guages. Then wire a cig lighter plug into the centre consol. I want atleast 2 guages, oil press and boost. If i can fit more in I'll also put in a oil temp and water temp.

If i could wire a switch between 3 sensors I'd have the temp guage so it can display water, oil and trans temps. Not sure if it's possible, but I don't see why not

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280296-blitz-r-vit/#findComment-4733235
Share on other sites

If I was to get something made up, to hold guages in the area below the din panels, over the cig lighter and ash tray, would people be interested in getting one also?

What i'm planning is to make up a mould to fit the area perfectly. Then lay in a few layers of carbon fibre, once it's set I'll trim them up. If a few people would like them, or i couldn't get it looking good, I'd get the carbon fibre work done professionally. But by machining up a nice mould it should make things much easier either way.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280296-blitz-r-vit/#findComment-4735604
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...