Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would definitely try reducing that toe on the rear to 0 or even a bit of toe in (maybe start with half a mil each side). toe out makes them a bit taily. I know it squats a fair bit but yeah some toe in on the rear will make it a bit better to drive. I'm sure most guys that have tried different alignments on their skylines and GTRs would agree.

bummer about needing the oil tank in the engine bay. can you not seal off the boot area with a proper firewall and keep it in the boot? or does andra mandate that all fluids must be confined to the engine bay or something?

No worries i will experiment with the toe's and cambers thanks for your input duely noted thumbsup.gif. Its hard at the moment to get consistent data feedback due to the lack of practice but once we do these few minor adjustments to the car and get passed by Andra we can go full throttle.

As for the sump tank Andra states that all oils, batteries etc must not be in the drivers compartment, our's is behind the passenger seat at the moment and we do not have enough room in the boot for a 15L tank, easiest option is to sell the big tank and buy a smaller one and mount it in the engine bay like most dry sumped drag GTR's put them. No big drama its fairly easy change so no skin off our nose.

Also our Stillway 0-400m Drag shifter turned up today, so i installed and tested it straight away, seems like a good bit of gear, now we don't have to worry about putting in the wrong gear and killing the engine. I also got pulled over by the Cops while my brother and I were driving it for a RBT, they had a pretty cheesy grin on the face as the knew the car was definitely not street legal, but they didn't say anything and drove off and let us be. Thought they were gonna impound the car for sure hahaha maybe next timewoot.gif.

Will get some pics tomorrow for you, they basically stop you from downshifting into the wrong gear. e.g when you go from 1st to 2nd, you can not physically can not back into 1st, it locks you out, and the same with 2nd to 3rd. Its a pretty trick bit of gear very good for people with PPG dogboxes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...