Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Guys, just letting everyone know that I am putting some gear up for sale, wont be long and the team will be doing the new mods to the car and hopefully smash some records, we have set our goal to break both records.... 8.47 by RH9 fastest street tired gtr and theos 8.95 fastest Manual H pattern GTR in one foul swoop. The new mods are going to blow peoples minds but keeping it a little secret for now and see if we can pull it off.

Item 1 for sale, Fuel system leaves the tank on a -10 to the 044 lift pump, out of the pump in -8 to the swirl pot, custom 4 outlets welded to the bottem of the sard tank, 4 outlets are -8 to the 4x 044 pumps, out of the pumps -6 with check valves into the Canister Filter and than runs 2x -8 feed lines to the rail, and a -10 return to the swirl pot and than -10 from swirl pot back to 40L main tank, Also a -8 Breather line which runs into the factor fuel cap hole with a roleover ball system. All fittings are Proflow blue and silver, using Teflon Braid, Also comes with all the wiring and relay holders setup to go! This setup is perfect for 1000HP applications and looks shit hot cause I designed it. comes with mounting bracket for canister filter, its the complete system ready to go.

$1800 ono

Sard Swirl Pod (expensive as!!!!) 5L

ProFlow 40L aluminium Fuel Tank,

Bosch 044 fuel pumps x 5

ProFlow inline -10 Return Filter

Proflow Canister Filter

044 pump holders

relays

wiring

All the shit!!!!

310797_2612609561618_1798636800_n.jpg

1st item for sale, Fuel system leaves the tank on a -10 to the 044 lift pump, out of the pump in -8 to the swirl pot, custom 4 outlets welded to the bottem of the sard tank, 4 outlets are -8 to the 4x 044 pumps, out of the pumps -6 with check valves into the Canister Filter and than runs 2x -8 feed lines to the rail, and a -10 return to the swirl pot and than -10 from swirl pot back to 40L main tank, Also a -8 Breather line which runs into the factor fuel cap hole with a roleover ball system. All fittings are Proflow blue and silver, using Teflon Braid, Also comes with all the wiring and relay holders setup to go! This setup is perfect for 1000HP applications and looks shit hot cause I designed it. comes with mounting bracket for canister filter, its the complete system ready to go.

$2000

Sard Swirl Pod (expensive as!!!!) 5L

ProFlow 40L aluminium Fuel Tank,

Bosch 044 fuel pumps x 5

ProFlow inline -10 Return Filter

Proflow Canister Filter and Bracket

Roll over Breather ball setup

044 pump holders

relays

wiring

All the shit!!!!

422709_10150635534533485_2105014345_n.jpg

2nd item for sale:- HKS Drag Exhaust System Cat Back, 4" stainless with a HKS Titanium 4" Cannon!!!! (Very Very Very Rare Exhaust system)

$500

66744_1637929355222_7788879_n.jpg

66744_1637929395223_4306257_n.jpg

66744_1637929435224_4430447_n.jpg

3rd item for sale:- Front R32 GTR Standard Brakes all been kitted out and billet dogbones to suit bigger front rotors, R33 GTR Brembo Rear brakes and Rotors, All the brakes have been kitted out and had new rotors approximately 12months work on the drag strip, roughly 20passes. Pictures are when it was freshly painted, but front calipers have paint coming off front brake fluid I split on them. Can repaint front calipers if needed but no biggy.

$1000 for the hole lot.

Brembo sticker on front ones are fake just to match the rears :P

58036_1744178571386_7743040_n.jpg

and rear ones are real brembos and now has sticker back on there.

155387_1744178931395_6472588_n.jpg

inside 19" rims but also fit inside my 17" drag rims.

292527_4227980784889_2087269868_n.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Making a 4" Titanium Dump Pipe that goes into a side pipe under the door, aswell as a 50mm Titanium Screamer side pipe from the Wastegate. Will save over 20kgs of weight over the old exhaust system.

Hey dude, definately cool that youve gone all out on this build.

Found a video that may be of interest to you. If you skip to 3.20, youll see yellow R32 GTR making a 8.11 second pass and 1.018 sec 60 footer. They end up talking about the engine etc but its all in Japanese.

EDIT: Just did some backtracing and found the full spec list etc....

http://www.bea.hi-ho.ne.jp/avance/yellowmonster.htm

  • 1 month later...

Haven't done a update in awhile as the car has been out of action since Jambo last year, have slowly pulled my finger out and got my shit together to bring this car back big, better, faster, stronger. Over the next few weeks the car is getting a major overhaul in preparation for Local Motor Mayham at Palmyra Dragway at the end of the month.

Got 3 weeks to get this work list done gonna be stretched for time:

- Full carbon Fibre Strange braking system to go on (Saving Approx 30KG rotational mass)

- Carbon Fibre Doors with Lexan Windows (Saving approx. 60KG)

- Custom 4" Titanium Exhaust System with Titanium Screamer Pipe (Saving about 20KG)

- Rebuild PPG Gearbox with all new bearings, main shaft and 3rd Gear + OS Giken Billet Sandwich Plate going in.

- All new fuel system with Aeromotive Mechanical Pump mounted to the rear of the Peterson Dry Sump Pump. ( Saving over 40kg over old system)

- Custom made fuel cell mounted in front of car 15L Capacity.

- Upgrading to Twin Parachutes as the single one was not sufficient for power and weight.

+ more power for more MPH aiming to take out both the Manual and Auto gearbox Street Tyre World Records, quite confident we can achieve this feat, time will tell I guess :woot: . Goal is 8.3 - 8.4 Sec pass which just over half a second from our current PB. Gonna be an action packed season....bring it on can't wait.

Will post pics soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...