Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 304
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Not much to update, just a whole heap of more parts on the way. Currently over in Japan doing the whole touring of tune shops etc.

So to add to the list of items i have.

2x Bride Gardis3 FIA approved seats

2x Bride FX-type FIA approved rails

Takata Harness

Billion Power Steering Tank

HKS SSQ3 bov

Nismo Thermostat

Defi Turbo Gauge

Voltex 1700mm Wet Carbon GT wing

HKS Turbo to Pod induction piping

Tomei Intake headlight

WorksBell detachable bosskit

ARC Side Flow Air removel tank

+more to come

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks mate.

Just been spending the last couple of days gutting the drivers side doors.

Going to weld in a couple of thin rods on the doors to mount the acrylic windows and brace them alittle.

post-38653-0-77308500-1299760151_thumb.jpg

post-38653-0-69552000-1299760189_thumb.jpg

I say go all the way and weld the rear doors shut!

refresh my memory, do 34 sedans have doors with window frames? from memory they do. it should make fitting the lexan a fair bit easier. it's a bit of a bitch on GTRs as with nothing to support the top of the windows they flex a lot.

Yeah on sedans theres window frames so alot easier for mounting. Was thinking of welding the rear shut but I might wanna chuck tools in there if I'm going to a track day etc, not gonna make much difference I don't think.

no it wont, but if you did weld the doors shut it means you could basically remove everything (including latch etc) except the outer skin itself, could even remove the hinges with some thought. but yeah it loses a little bit of rear access.

Manage to weigh the rear door up tonight and comes in at 20kg, after i made it look pretty it weighs 10kg and front doors weigh in at 28kg and i got them down around 12-13kg.

:)

If only i had the patience and like most people the money to go nuts on my car a bit more.. 10-15k doesnt get you much these days so id hate to see the final bill on this.

You going to track it all around Aus or just go to whatever it is thats local to adelaide?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...