Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi out there, does anyone know what an rb 26 is meant to idle at standard, i have an arc air box and cat back exhaust.

it idles around 1050-1100

from past experience all my cars being manual have sat around 800 or so.

does anyone know how to adjust the idle on an rb26?

do you adjust the throttle bodie linkage near the accelerator cable or something else?

any info would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280946-rb26-standard-idle/
Share on other sites

Hi out there, does anyone know what an rb 26 is meant to idle at standard, i have an arc air box and cat back exhaust.

it idles around 1050-1100

from past experience all my cars being manual have sat around 800 or so.

does anyone know how to adjust the idle on an rb26?

do you adjust the throttle bodie linkage near the accelerator cable or something else?

any info would be much appreciated.

Hi mate! On the RB26 you have three methods of adjusting ur idle speed: ECU (aftermarket), throttle linkage and AAC Valve. The main place to adjust ur idle would be on the AAC valve located under ur intake plenum. This is an adjustable screw, mid section under side of plenum facing forward. If you screw this screw clockwise, ur idle speed will decrease, anti clock wise and ur idle speed will increase. I personally would not adjust ur throttle linkage, leave it be! RB26's are happy to idle around 650 - 800 RPM. I have a Nissan service information sticker under 33 vspec bonnet and it stipulates idle RPM to be 650. Hope this helps u out!

Hi mate! On the RB26 you have three methods of adjusting ur idle speed: ECU (aftermarket), throttle linkage and AAC Valve. The main place to adjust ur idle would be on the AAC valve located under ur intake plenum. This is an adjustable screw, mid section under side of plenum facing forward. If you screw this screw clockwise, ur idle speed will decrease, anti clock wise and ur idle speed will increase. I personally would not adjust ur throttle linkage, leave it be! RB26's are happy to idle around 650 - 800 RPM. I have a Nissan service information sticker under 33 vspec bonnet and it stipulates idle RPM to be 650. Hope this helps u out!

yup, that is by far the best and easiest way to ajust the idle

when your ajusting it, start the engine, get a long screwdriver, turn the screw, after each ajustments wait about 10~15 senconds for the idle speed to settle

yup, that is by far the best and easiest way to ajust the idle

when your ajusting it, start the engine, get a long screwdriver, turn the screw, after each ajustments wait about 10~15 senconds for the idle speed to settle

thanks heaps guys eally appreciate your info. :)

  • 7 years later...

a very common cause of high idle for the rb26 is some plonka has cleaned inside the throttle bodies.

they have a factory film, clean that off and you get a 1100-1200 idle. it wont be helped by the idle screw either so crack the plenum off and check that also.

6 hours ago, powerdbygarrett said:

Hate to bring up an old thread but can someone confirm the location of the screw? 

Is it one of these guys? 

Thanks!

unnamed (1).jpg

Wow a car that still has HICAS!

Anyway, that is the AAC and the idle screw is on that. It may be the screw in your red circle (hard to tell in that pic). Depending on how standard your car is, the ECU also has an idle adjust screw and the throttles themselves could be adjusted.

If you have developed a high idle, its more likely you have an air leak somewhere in the intake. AAC should never really need adjustment unless you've just given it a full clean out internally

On 11/6/2016 at 11:20 PM, GH05T said:

a very common cause of high idle for the rb26 is some plonka has cleaned inside the throttle bodies.

they have a factory film, clean that off and you get a 1100-1200 idle. it wont be helped by the idle screw either so crack the plenum off and check that also.

This is the way I purchased the car. I am not sure how the idle was with the previous owner. If the film has been cleaned off, what would be the solutution?

On 11/7/2016 at 1:56 AM, Duncan said:

Wow a car that still has HICAS!

Anyway, that is the AAC and the idle screw is on that. It may be the screw in your red circle (hard to tell in that pic). Depending on how standard your car is, the ECU also has an idle adjust screw and the throttles themselves could be adjusted.

If you have developed a high idle, its more likely you have an air leak somewhere in the intake. AAC should never really need adjustment unless you've just given it a full clean out internally

The car seems pretty standard, not really modded. just basic stuff. I will check for vacuum leaks. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...