Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey forum I am having an issue with my car overheating and was wondering if anyone can give theories why. I never had heating issues with my normal radiator with clutch fan, but I took it out to install an aluminum dual core I got on a deal. Now the car overheats during normal driving in the daytime. It overheats to the point where hot water bubbles out of the overflow bottle and the stock temp gauge is right below the mark before the H on the gauge.. I have driven it extremely hard in the night time and it didn't overheat, or I just have not driven it long enough, but I think I did as it was driven hard. It just seems to overheat in the daytime under normal driving conditions. I have a 16" electric fan attached to the radiator for cooling without shroud. Can anyone give suggestions as to why it is overheating now with a bigger radiator installed?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281403-overheating-heating-issue-r33/
Share on other sites

You may have a air lock in the system.... Just a thought does happen if they are not filled correctly...

Try this:

Start your engine, but leave the radiator cap off so the pressure doesn't build up.

Let the engine run until it reaches its operating temperature.

Turn on your heater and set the temperature control to hot. This will circulate the coolant and any air in the heater lines and core.

Check the level of the coolant. You may find that the level has gone down some. How did that happen? The air trapped in the radiator kept the level artificially high; when this air was released, it opened up more space in the radiator, and allowed more antifreeze into the system. Add more water and antifreeze, in the same 50/50 ratio, to fill the space left by the bled-out air.

As the air bleeds out, the coolant may bubble and spit from the opening on top of the radiator. Use caution--that coolant is hot.

If this does not work check thermostat but i would say thats ur problem.

  • 2 weeks later...

depending on the front mount (if you have one) you could have it restricting flow to the radiator, some aftermarket ones due tend to create a host of cooling problems especially on the track, but go through the basics first, check coolant level and look for leaks/blockages within the radiator...

I have a 16" electric fan attached to the radiator for cooling without shroud.

:O

Just had my dual core installed, retained the stock shroud and my temps are about 13-15 degrees lower at all times...

:(

end thread.

Edited by gunmetalgrey

gunmetalgrey was the first person to pic up the problem. without the shroud the fan isn't work properly. it is probably only working at 50%, if that. most of the cooling comes from the ends of the fan blades as they are traveling faster then the centre of the fan (same rpm, but at a faster speed). without a proper shroud the fan can just suck air from around the outside of the radiator. personally i, and many others, think that the stock clutch fan works better than most thermos.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...