Jump to content
SAU Community

Extremeyl Good Tuners In Brisbane?

GHO57

By GHO57,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

GHO57 Enthusiast

GHO57

Posted
Posted

Hi all, i recently have done a few mods to my r33,

- high mount to4e

- 720cc injectors

- 040 fuel pump

- sard fpr

- greddy ultimate

- greddy plenum

- fuel rail

- new cooler piping

- turbosmart boost tee running 18psi backing to 14psi.

it made 220kw at the rears on 16psi at 6200rpm(limiter set at that, which im pretty pissed about, im thinking its the turbo not making the power, but i need a workshop that can tune it better as i aint 100% happy with the power and tune, any thoughts?, ive previously had an s13 with an rb20 which had link ecu, to4e, fuel pump, ignitors, cooler, exhuast, 15psi that made 320hp, give and take a couple of hp due to different dynos, but my rb25 isnt making the power it should?any ideas will be muchly appreciated?...thanks. Ive heard about Matty Spry if anyone know his contact details or what his workshop is called pklease let me know thanks

Please talk through past experience, thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282028-extremeyl-good-tuners-in-brisbane/
Share on other sites
EFI Performance Enthusiast

EFI Performance

Posted
Posted (edited)

G'Day GHO57,

Im the tuner at EFI, I dont normally post on here as that is Ricks (whitey) thing,

The power that you are making in very respectable with a T04E.

One thing to remember that a T04E does come in may different housing and wheel trims and sizes.

Your 220rwkw works out to around 300rwhp which on 16 psi is pretty good.

Its a little lower than 35R sort of power figures with an older style turbo you have to expect that.

I would maybe ring your tuner and ask why the rev limiter is set too 6200, as this is pretty low for a 25. If the power is dropping off then maybe look at camshaft timing as this is a good give away for horsepower falling early.

You say your boost controller is hitting 18psi, then dropping to 14 psi? Do you mean its spiking to 18psi then dropping to 14psi higher in the rpm? if this is the case, Its sounds like you may have a compressor out of flow or a miss match on the exhaust housing side e.g. too small exhaust housing.

How is the drivablilty of the tune? does the car start and drive well? does it use a excessive fuel when not driven hard? These are things you have to take into account other than power figures.

Id give your old tuner a bell, and just ask them. They where obviously good enough to go to in the first place, and they may have explanations for all your questions and even options on how to remedy any issues you have.

Failing that Matty can be contacted on

Performance Injection Tuning Services

Unit 10 / 42 Export Drive

Molendinar QLD 4214

Australia

Phone : 0411 34 00 33

Thanks,

Sean

Edited by EFI Performance
FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted
G'Day GHO57,

Im the tuner at EFI, I dont normally post on here as that is Ricks (whitey) thing,

The power that you are making in very respectable with a T04E.

One thing to remember that a T04E does come in may different housing and wheel trims and sizes.

Your 220rwkw works out to around 300rwhp which on 16 psi is pretty good.

Its a little lower than 35R sort of power figures with an older style turbo you have to expect that.

I would maybe ring your tuner and ask why the rev limiter is set too 6200, as this is pretty low for a 25. If the power is dropping off then maybe look at camshaft timing as this is a good give away for horsepower falling early.

You say your boost controller is hitting 18psi, then dropping to 14 psi? Do you mean its spiking to 18psi then dropping to 14psi higher in the rpm? if this is the case, Its sounds like you may have a compressor out of flow or a miss match on the exhaust housing side e.g. too small exhaust housing.

How is the drivablilty of the tune? does the car start and drive well? does it use a excessive fuel when not driven hard? These are things you have to take into account other than power figures.

Id give your old tuner a bell, and just ask them. They where obviously good enough to go to in the first place, and they may have explanations for all your questions and even options on how to remedy any issues you have.

Failing that Matty can be contacted on

Performance Injection Tuning Services

Unit 10 / 42 Export Drive

Molendinar QLD 4214

Australia

Phone : 0411 34 00 33

Thanks,

Sean

All good common sense there.

One of the big ticket items on your list is the greddy plenum. Just because you paid plenty for it doesnt mean it well net you a massive power gain.

At that mod level it would brobably do bugger all and may even cost you some down low squirt.

GHO57 Enthusiast

GHO57

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thank you to all that have replied, fuel economy is better than it was stock, im getting more km's out of a full tank of 98optimax, and with the mods im fairly happy with the consumption atm, yes i am aware the plenum may not do much in power gains, but for future plug changes, more spacious room in the enigine bay i went with it, its a genuine greddy plenum yes it costs big bucks, but hey its not something ill be thinking of changing later on & i dont want a chinese brand that doesnt fit or needs modifying to fit, but the turbo on the other hand, yes but a standard turbo could make 300hp atw, dont understand why a t04e isnt capable especially on 16psi making more power, yes it spikes to 18psi the backs on to a steady 16psi, cheers for all the info guys please pm me a workshop that is able to help me cheers.

Revhead Grand Master

Revhead

Posted
Posted

If you have good coils you shouldn't need to gap your plugs down to 0.7mm - all you're doing is hiding a weak spark.

Try opening them back up to 1.0 or 1.1 mm and see if that helps your idle, obviously if it starts breaking down under load at higher rpm though (at 18psi and not insane power you should be right if the coils are in good nick) you'll need to either close them up a little bit or invest in stronger coils. IMHO it's worth looking at a set of LS1 coils or something similar if your ECU can drive them, it doesn't sound like you have an issue with upgrading with an eye to the future :(

GHO57 Enthusiast

GHO57

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for that, yeah the coilpacks are brand new, i dont know why but "they" said to me that i needed a cooler plug(which is correct for higher boost levels), but yeah im taking it to get it dynoed again on the 15th-08-09 so it will be interesting to see what is stopping it, cheers all.

Big Thanks to EFI PERFORMANCE for their help so far. Appreciated

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...