Jump to content
SAU Community

Digital Radio (dab+)


iseekool
 Share

Recommended Posts

Just wondering if anyone here is using/listening to digital radio in DAB+ format.

I got myself a Pure Highway digital receiver for my car - Sounds brilliant - definately better than FM in terms of clarity, but not as good as CD. Some stations unfortunately sound like low quality MP3s - you can notice the compression.

Is anyone else using any other brand of reciever for their cars?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No intsaller required - You mount it like a sat nav - the wires are annoying. The unit will either transmit via the built in FM transmitter or via an 3.5mm AUX/headphone connector.

I did a hidden setup whereby the unit is in my glove box - this prevents "most" of the wires being exposed - but makes it a pain to change stations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re-transmitting on FM seems wrong, I thought the main cool thing besides the song titles was the apparently "CD quality" radio, transmitting via FM will lose the quality.

I use USB personally but I would like to try the AUX input and hook up a digital receiver to it....when there are some more mature products for it around that I can get cheaply :down:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Satellite radio costs too much, those models are struggling to survive in the USA.

I think I'll wait a while, the receivers cost way too much $$$ at the moment, I'm hoping the market will get more saturated in the next 6months and therefore price will drop a lot....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If i do go digital, which i probably wont till i have to, it would have to be something built into a head unit, i dont like having any extra bits hanging off places.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd say post the dyno sheet so people can look on it, but you already know all dynos are different. I mean 26psi on Petrol/Gasoline seems pretty up there, and if you aren't revving it out then unless your torque is really nosing over, then of course more RPM will equal more HP. If you think E85 will make the difference between 533whp and 600whp the answer is absolutely yes. Given the only thing that makes power is the turbo, and you've got plenty of boost in there, it all seems semi reasonable to me. Curious to see what other people say though. The one thing that never lies is MPH at the drag strip. See what you trap. (ok, it can lie a bit with altitude and conditions etc)
    • Hello again, I have a 1991 r32 gtr that I’ve modified and dynod. The power it gave me was a bit disappointing with 533 wheel horsepower and 444nm torque on a dyno jet dyno. On a heavier dyno it would read to about 433 wheel horsepower. I say disappointing because it currently has : CP oversized 87mm pistons Eagle H beam rods Extended crank with the nitto collar  stock oil pump (nitto on the way) stock sump (leask sump on the way) Garret G35-900 single turbo  ^ With 26psi of boost (1.6 bar) 6boost v band manifold  turbosmart 60mm external wastegate Brian crower 264 cams tomei gaskets all around arp head studs  dual wallbro fuel pumps dw 1050cc injectors greddy radiator metal Intercooler pipes nismo thermostat  offbrand fuel regulator (tomei regulator on the way) ngk 7’s spark plugs (tuner refused to tune with 8’s for my car) Running on a motec m800  I know that running on e85 and opening the rpm to around 8500 instead of my current 7200 will also boost my power yet will it increase a lot or just slight because people like cardoGTR and andrew Hawkin from motive were all running around 600 wheel horsepower on the same setup as mine. Any feedback on what I’m missing?   thanks
    • At the moment still 8mm. 
    • I see what you mean !! 👍 so I drive with E85 AND E100 my cylinder head and full supertech with 270° camshaft and 10.25 lift this weekend I spoke with my mapper and he told me 10 ratio would be even better so I went to set up a setup with : 3.2l crankshaft from expensive spool import with a stroke of 91mm Nitto or IRP connecting rods length 152.5 mm and piston irp ratio of 10 after having the information near spool import the setup did not work because of the crankshaft which is 91 mm  therefore the assembly mounted in the engine block will come out 1mm high above the cylinder head gasket surface so I have to review the construction of the lower engine low IRP is Italian I am French I wanted to limit the costs because as they are in Europe I do not have customs fees to pay 🤷‍♀️
    • Update. Returned yesterday after a two-day venture driving it from Toowoomba, QLD to VIC.  Some bigger shots. However, this was a couple of hours into the rive at a driver reviver stop so you'll need to excuse the bugs across the front and the water from the storm we just escaped.  Looks like at some points both side windows had wind guards and were removed but left behind some kind of silicone or something (?). Any tips on how to remove this stuff appreciated. Noticed the handle for the hood release kind of just fell from its position with nothing fixing it in place to the mount. Looks like two bolts go there. Again, any advice is appreciated. The driver's seat is a Recaro seat in a fixed position (not mounted using the rails, which were in the boot). So the trip one was...more painful than necessary. I'm a bigger guy, so the seat belt was basically tight.  It also has a rip in the seat side closest to the drivers door.  Overall, I'm happy with my purchase.   Now I'm trying to navigate getting the roadworthy and registration here in VIC. Hope it will go well but I know the hood release will need to be fixed for sure.  
×
×
  • Create New...