Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A package of used HKS GT3037S RB20 Kit for sale.

Kit includes a HKS GT3037S Turbo.

Top mount stainless steel extractor.

External wastegate.

Dump pipe.

Asking for $3,700 ono.

Information of turbo::

HKS GT3037 Pro S - 480 PS Output

COMPRESSOR:

-Wheel- 56 Trim - 57.0 Inducer / 76.2 Major

-Housing- 100 Inlet / 50 Outlet - 0.60 A/R

TURBINE:

-Wheel- 84 Trim - 60.0 Major / 55.0 Exducer

-Housing- T3 inlet / External GT-Pro outlet; 0.68, 0.87 A/R

Contact 0423 442 003

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28260-fs-used-hks-gt3037s-rb20-kit/
Share on other sites

He actually has a 3037S, the S has the split type inducer, as in my avatar.

Must ask though, why are you selling so cheap? Is the turbo stuffed.

I noticed it had oil and water lines too???

I have one of these turbos on my car, and it cost me alot more than $3700 all up once you include the cost of oil and water lines, manifold, wastegate and dump. This is a bargain if anyone is in the market for one of these (unless of course its rooted:))

Also, what is the turbine housing AR? it should be stamped on the housing.

The Pro is internal gated and T3 flange, as its not a pro, it will be GT25 flange - not that it makes much difference if you have a manifold to suit.

Perhaps a bit more info about why you are selling, where it came from, condition etc would help?

Will bolt up to an RB25 head as well. So should be a good chance of fitting R33s, though it will pay to be careful and check that on an R33 the wastegate/ or manifold doesnt clash on any negine bay parts.

I would have been intersted about 2 months ago. Also maybe mention of the manifold has any visible signs of cracks that have been repaired?

  • 4 weeks later...

Hello Breber, I have a hr31 sitting at home in perth and am interested in the turbo that you have. I assume that this is roller bearing and in good condition? I am currently out of the country but my brother will look at it for me. Please contact him at [email protected] If ur interested....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...