Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guyz, I just wanted to know where can i get an o2 sensor for my R34, and where is the o2 sensor exactly located.. my mileage is pretty low so planning on getting it changed...

The 2nd thing was Where can i get a 0.8mm Spark plug for my R34 and how much does it cost...

Thanks guyz for all the help u can provide!!

I use NGK BCPR6E spark plugs.

Get them from repco, supercheap, autobarn etc for a couple dollars each.

Got 6 of them around the $30 mark

O2 sensor is on the dump pipe on your exhaust. (Look at your turbo and follow the dump pipe coming out, the o2 sensor should be plugged into the pipe.)

Not sure what model o2 sensor you would need for a r34 but expect around the $100 ish mark for one.

I use NGK BCPR6E spark plugs.

Get them from repco, supercheap, autobarn etc for a couple dollars each.

Got 6 of them around the $30 mark

O2 sensor is on the dump pipe on your exhaust. (Look at your turbo and follow the dump pipe coming out, the o2 sensor should be plugged into the pipe.)

Not sure what model o2 sensor you would need for a r34 but expect around the $100 ish mark for one.

Or trade price should get all of that for around 100 bux :( oxy sensor is 77 IIRC, and plugs were either 11 or 22 for 6

Hey James, by the socket u mean the plug rite?

Yea man, not sure how much you know but basically your O2 Sensor looks a little bit like this (different socket)

oxygen_sensor_1.jpg

Because of the wire you cant just place a regular socket over it and because of the placement it's a pain in the ass to use a regular spanner

55540.jpgI Have one of these if you want to borrow it or you can bring your car over and we can just do it here, makes your life sooo much easier

What mods are done to the car?

If running a standard-ish setup, you should not be buying 0.8 - rather 1.0 at the least, could be one of your reasons for not-so-good economy.

Also get it on a dyno, see what the AFR's are doing. Could be a fuel reg slowly dying out and so on

Well i just got t dynod few days back and it has some basic stuff like pod filter,boost controller,cat back exhaust,blow of, and Apexi AFC, so evrything has been tuned and the tuner told me to go for a 0.8mm plug!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Found the answer: it wont fit without a bit of work- you'd have to change the guards as well
    • Ok cool, because I do have some OEM BMW options for light(er) wheels. 17x8.5 M Sport wheels are 11kg and I could put 255's on them. Maybe that's an initial test.
    • So, in the effort of pulling apart airboxes and testing enclosures to see if this aids in MAP loss at WOT I noticed: 1) The ducts up the OEM intercooler holes from the front bar help IAT drastically, whether the pod is shielded from the engine bay by an airbox missing a lid, or an airbox WITH a lid. Plus you get more induction sound without the lid. Having half the airbox (with no lid) acting as a barrier to the headers seems to help. 2) For shits and giggles I checked the TB. This was full pedal travel. This is actually full travel of the TB. Photos aren't perfect, but there was definitely an amount of play in it and it wasn't against the stop. After much swearing and adjusting the pedal, I realised that the cable is actually too long for the skyline pedal travel to fully articulate it. Having the pedal adjusted so WOT was actually hard open on WOT resulted in an idle of 3500rpm. As an aside, this was also the TPS registering at 3.1%. I removed the above to give the pedal enough travel to actually fully open the TB. I now get a satisfying 'thonk' on full open and full closed which you can hear pumping the pedal as it hits the TB stops (with the bonnet open and intake back on). Luckily for me, the screw screws into a raised metal boss under this plastic piece that is now acting as the new throttle stop. I've gained about 20mm (ish) of pedal travel and I can move it maybe a mm or two post open-thonk before it's hard against the stop. After all of this I did a bit of road tuning because a 102MM throttle is sensitive. The difference between holding an 950rpm idle and instantly stalling is about 0.4% of TPS movement. Will that help? I suppose it can't hurt. I set 'closed' point back to where it was, I can definitely feel the extra pedal travel that is needed to actually open the TB fully. But this morning I dropped the car off at Paint Jail again, so who knows when this will re-eventuate out to see if it helps with the top of the dyno hitting a ceiling.
    • Take heart that everyone else seems to have found a way. The OEM S1 indicators do slot in pretty firmly. It may simply be a case of having them sit slightly looser and nobody actually ever noticed this when attempting to remove a indicator from a JSAI bar :p
  • Create New...