Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, hot on the heels of the first Dutton Rally event, its been confirmed that the next one will be on the June long weekend next year, 4-6 June.

Just thought I'd post up to guage interest from the club in joining in. For 2 drivers with top line cheater tyres you should allow up to $2k each for the weekend.

The earlier you start preparing, saving and approaching sponsors the easier this can be :)

So, who's interested? If there are more than about 5 entries I'll loby those guys for a 6 cylinder Tubro class so we can beat up XR6Ts in peace :)

----------------------------

Updated, interested expressed by:

Duncan

Dan

Carlo

Dominic

GSR13s

Fatz

B-man

Red900ss

OzGTR97v and Zane

Gonad Man

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28372-dutton-rally-2004/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 83
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes you only need a level 2s licence:

I dont think Id go for sticky tyres next year, Im going for better tread for the skid pan stuff (Save $1,600)

The best way to get sponsors is to contact companies that you do business with. Dont expect someone that does not know you to give you money, esp not speed shops tyre co. etc. I prepare a package with pictures of my car and send them to people in charge of Companies that I know.

In return for their tax deductible donation they get framed pictures of *their sponsored race car*. I ask for $1,100 per sponsor, which covers them for all the events I do each year. I can normally get $5,500 to $7,700.

I also split the entry fee and accomodation down the middle as after all they are using my car, wheels, tyres, petrol, consumables etc. Strangely enough my co-drivers always seem to be able to wring more out of my car than I can. (Other peoples cars go faster syndrome)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28372-dutton-rally-2004/#findComment-590055
Share on other sites

Hey guys!

Fatz is already frothing at the mouth over next years Dutton. The enthusiasm is infectious! I think I've caught it!

I've just gotta find some people stupid enough to sponsor me and someone stupid enough to co-drive a bloody WRX. Any takers..........................thought not! :bahaha:

Seriously though I'd love to be there in 2004. I'm getting plenty of practice in on the skid pan!

Cheers,

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28372-dutton-rally-2004/#findComment-592149
Share on other sites

Duncan,

That is the wrong form... it says 4th-6th June 2003

Can you please send the right one?

LOL

Dan.

Nads,

If you need a co driver then I might be stupid enough... never drivin a hyundai though... :confused:

Dan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28372-dutton-rally-2004/#findComment-592202
Share on other sites

Hey Guys.

Good news, the organisers have confirmed we there will be a RWD 6cyl tubro class as long as ther are 6 entries ;)

On the other hand, I guess I'll have to enter my shiney new race GTR in class A :headspin:

Oh, and interest list updated in first post :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28372-dutton-rally-2004/#findComment-593165
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...