Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got a Ruzic TSC , doesn't have much in the way of installation instructions.. I have done some work on my car Before eg, clutch, gearbox etc but nothing on the electronics side so could use some help with this one.....

most of the wiring looks to be straight forward, just match up the colours of the wires.. BUT I've pulled the dash, centre console and centre gauges, stereo etc to pieces, to connect wire to back of the front torque gauge to the + screw as described ( trying to follow instructions I found on here ) there is 4 screws with 3 of them marked os its not obvious which is the + one... is it the top right as I suspect.. ( when looking at the back of the gauge )..also is it ok to just tap into the stereo power + & - ,, as for the toggle switch can I use the aerial switch on the dash it only has two wires going to the back of it and the toggle switch only has two also, will that be ok ( the aerial has never worked but reception is fine )

If there is anyone in perth who has done this before and would be kind enough to come round and help or if anyone can just answer the questions above that would be awesome..........

Try checking out this post for some tips if your still keen to try it yourself

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/As...ue-t266312.html

yeah thats the one I'm trying follow, lot easier when you have someone who's done it before with you......

I see he used the stereo power, I was just hoping there was somewhere more accessable...

cheers

The stereo power is right below the gauges (front torque split gauge) which I had to connect to, so I thought that was a logical place to get power from.

Good luck

paul (mountainrunner) is on these forums if you are stuck.

good buy :D

yeah he's just messaged me and said the best place to get the power is from the same place as ECU & also I think he said the wire to back of gauge is only needed for when you use external data logging !! just waiting for confirmation of that...will post up what I find out for others....

ok job done ...not exactly straight forward with those instructions and wiring diagram..firstly on all the paper work including the wiring diagram they refer to the G-sensor and then on the wiring table it starts talking about an Accelerometer ???? I asume that is is G-sensor ( if I'm wrong I've fkd it ) and also if you tap into the drivers side of the g-sensor plug (as these are wires the wiring diagram describes) then the Lateral G signal from G-sensor & lateral G signal out to computer-- are the wrong way round !!!!

anyway that was my experience ...... good luck to anyone having a go....icon9.gif

still haven't had a reply from mountainrunner, so I just took a punt and did it the way I thought made sense..

will test it out the track next weeksorcerer.gif

If you know how to improve the instructions I wrote please feel free to contribute, it wasn't a very difficult install but it could have been if I didn't get guidance from someone :down:

Yes, pretty sure accelerometer is the G-sensor located under the centre console in the R33/R32.

If you know how to improve the instructions I wrote please feel free to contribute, it wasn't a very difficult install but it could have been if I didn't get guidance from someone :(

Yes, pretty sure accelerometer is the G-sensor located under the centre console in the R33/R32.

Certainly not criticizing your instructions, couldn't have done the job without them :blush:

as the unit doesn't come with any how to....

If I get time I might add some to your instruction tread..

cheers

The product is obsolete or almost obsolete.

It's Paul's hobby and not really a mainstream business.

He only made a couple for enthusiasts so there was not enough profit to put a lot of R&D in the instruction.

I think he has been making a few more as requested but he is busy with other projects now.

I intalled mine and thought the instruction was fairly straight forward.

You should get a power source that is on when the key is ON and remains on during Start.

I wired up a relay switch from the ECU.

Edited by 9krpm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...