Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

where is the cheapest place in aust to get an ATI? I have family in the US might be able to send a few over if its worth it

I think we were quoted $930ish from hioctane or someone like that. Shipping from the states and the average dollar then import duties/GST.. almost worked out the same :down:

And yeah, was going to suggest Ross.. AFAIK, ATI only do 26 balancers.

I think we were quoted $930ish from hioctane or someone like that. Shipping from the states and the average dollar then import duties/GST.. almost worked out the same :down:

And yeah, was going to suggest Ross.. AFAIK, ATI only do 26 balancers.

yeah but if you only got 3 per time sent from a residential address in USA to a residential address here i dont reckon they could sting you the 27% tax or what ever it is

where is the cheapest place in aust to get an ATI? I have family in the US might be able to send a few over if its worth it

performance wholesale last time i rang was $714

While we are totaly off topic, anyone know of a good ballancer for an RB25 specific belt setup,

give Ross a call as they can make a custom balancer to suit ur application

I won't use an N1 pump again, I just had one fail and it's ugly. Just lots of little bits of smashed gear and the consequential damage no oil pressure causes. The extra dollars for a Nitto pump are well and truly justified compared to the time & cost of fixing the damage a broken pump caused. I've used 50 or 60 in the past without a problem but am now really paranoid about using one again.

We've got a heap of billet oil pump gear blanks machined up ready to cut the gear teeth on, anyone interested in a billet chrome moly set of gears that will fit into a factory pump housing? I'm just weighing up the cost of finishing them off, from memory we have about 50 sets semi machined. Also considering making then spline drive like a Toyota rather than the 2 flats.

I won't use an N1 pump again, I just had one fail and it's ugly. Just lots of little bits of smashed gear and the consequential damage no oil pressure causes. The extra dollars for a Nitto pump are well and truly justified compared to the time & cost of fixing the damage a broken pump caused. I've used 50 or 60 in the past without a problem but am now really paranoid about using one again.

We've got a heap of billet oil pump gear blanks machined up ready to cut the gear teeth on, anyone interested in a billet chrome moly set of gears that will fit into a factory pump housing? I'm just weighing up the cost of finishing them off, from memory we have about 50 sets semi machined. Also considering making then spline drive like a Toyota rather than the 2 flats.

what sort of $$$ are they going to be?

I won't use an N1 pump again, I just had one fail and it's ugly. Just lots of little bits of smashed gear and the consequential damage no oil pressure causes. The extra dollars for a Nitto pump are well and truly justified compared to the time & cost of fixing the damage a broken pump caused. I've used 50 or 60 in the past without a problem but am now really paranoid about using one again.

We've got a heap of billet oil pump gear blanks machined up ready to cut the gear teeth on, anyone interested in a billet chrome moly set of gears that will fit into a factory pump housing? I'm just weighing up the cost of finishing them off, from memory we have about 50 sets semi machined. Also considering making then spline drive like a Toyota rather than the 2 flats.

as previously discussed greg - i think your above idea & in particular the spline drive is right on the money!!!

hypothetically speaking, it is much better having the stress over say 12 edges rather than 2 edges, but then i also wonder why hasn't anyone done this in the past?

yeah but if you only got 3 per time sent from a residential address in USA to a residential address here i dont reckon they could sting you the 27% tax or what ever it is

The problem is, you haven't paid GST on them. The import duties only came to about $60, it was the $300+ in GST that really pissed me off. Residential to residential you might get through. Like I said, I've run the gauntlet before so I guess I should be happy this was the first time to get stung.

I just recently got a collar fitted on my crank and because I'm anal about all things in my motor, I pulled the backplate off the N1 pump and checked the gear clearance. It appears that the guy who did the collar for me machined the collar a fraction so it would fit easier. Now its seems a little looser fit on the gear. I'm not happy at all! Either way I'm getting it redone with a new collar and getting the reimax gears just for added security.

After what just happened to my crank, I wonder how many guys actually take the pump apart and check gear to collar clearances, as the company that did mine reckon they do it to all of their collars.

I won't use an N1 pump again, I just had one fail and it's ugly. Just lots of little bits of smashed gear and the consequential damage no oil pressure causes. The extra dollars for a Nitto pump are well and truly justified compared to the time & cost of fixing the damage a broken pump caused. I've used 50 or 60 in the past without a problem but am now really paranoid about using one again.

We've got a heap of billet oil pump gear blanks machined up ready to cut the gear teeth on, anyone interested in a billet chrome moly set of gears that will fit into a factory pump housing? I'm just weighing up the cost of finishing them off, from memory we have about 50 sets semi machined. Also considering making then spline drive like a Toyota rather than the 2 flats.

Definitely be interested aslong as the cost isn't exorbitant.

As for the splined idea, if you could supply a crank collar to suit then that could also be a goer.

And 20 cases is... 0.001%? :down:

Yes 20 random cases in 5 minutes of searching... and as somone mentioned, most people wont like to admit their motor had issues even if it was due to bad quality parts.

I suppose its my own fault, buy a cheapy N1 pump and hope it will last was a dumb idea on my behalf.

Marko, Toyota do it on most of their engines now, have done on their diesels for years. It's just that they are more labour intensive to make. It takes me 5 minutes to mill the flats on one of my collars, to mill 30 or so splines will take a lot longer.

It's a bit of a catch 22, to make a billet gear to suit the standard drive, the inner portion of the rotor needs to be wire cut as you can't mill that shape and I don't have a wire cutter and people that do charge a pretty good hourly rate for them and it's slow, from memory about 5mm/min, maybe newer machines are quicker. The rest of the gear is a mill-able profile and the internal splines can be broached which isn't a hassle to get done. I've got the rotor profile cadded up so that's not a problem. There's also isotropic finishing and heat treatment to do. I'll do some sums and see if they're still worth making.

How much are the gears you can currently buy? These wouldn't be cheap but they would be very good stuff.

Slow but damn accurate! We had the same issue when I looked at making replacement gears for one of our dry sump pumps that got damaged....however internal radiuses too tight for any cutter in the mill. Needed a wire cutter.

Curse the damn machines!

Kudos to you greg for having a go at sorting out this issue though. If successful will no doubt help alot of people out!

hey gary - you should go straight to the horses mouth & speak to jim from crd about the nitto pump...he has had over 20 years experience with the gtr & has been exposed to countless pumps (n1, tomei, jun, stock). he will give you the low down in about 5min :down:

Thanks Marko, i've bought the Nitto off Paul :/ And thanks for pulling out Rezlo, sounds like you got a good deal on an even better setup for your needs.

Gary

Marko, Toyota do it on most of their engines now, have done on their diesels for years. It's just that they are more labour intensive to make. It takes me 5 minutes to mill the flats on one of my collars, to mill 30 or so splines will take a lot longer.

Even if you have a collar and with a spline that drives the oil pump gear you will still have the flats on the crank driving the collar correct? Seems like it is not solving the direct problem.

Double key would do a nice job too, splines are harder to get right. Easy to machine a keyway in the crank and a mating inner section of an oil pump gear. On an engine refresh just replace the keys. But it means crank out...

Mike

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...