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N1 Oil Pump - Epic Fail

Rezlo

By Rezlo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Marko R1
Marko R1

fuel cut explains the massive flames that gtr's shoot out on the limiter - most gtr's u will see in japan run this way. so my guess is that fuel cut is acceptable but not sure if its better or worse t

zebra
zebra

errr....might want to re-read what you just wrote Marko. No fuel = no flames

JonnoHR31
JonnoHR31

same shit for an oil pump, engine is still stopping and starting in the same way. the only difference would be between different ecu's, for example, a stocker rb30e ecu cuts fuel to all cylinders when

Posted Images

bigmikespec Veteran

bigmikespec

Posted
Posted (edited)
hey they sponsor my racecar so i mention them where i can...lol

did somebody say Vi-PEC ? :blink:

Haha, forgot about that one.

Did you say Vi-PEC, I have a Vi-PEC too! We should all get Vi-PEC's...

Vi-PEC!

Edited by bigmikespec
Marko R1 Grand Master

Marko R1

Posted
Posted
Were the Group A GTRs from the early 90's a dry sump or externally oiled?

interesting question - anyone have the answer?

i question the reliability of an external oil pump although i might be on the wrong page :blink: ...what are the points of failure other than the 1st & obvious being the belt drive? i'd guess this belt could randomly snap just like any other belt - my thoughts is that its great for circuit where the car is highly maintained but for the street...would it be a feasible option?

paul, you have a nitto pump right & its fine for your monstrous setup?

the likes of crd dont recommend external pump (unless it is an extreme application)

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
interesting question - anyone have the answer?

i question the reliability of an external oil pump although i might be on the wrong page :blink: ...what are the points of failure other than the 1st & obvious being the belt drive? i'd guess this belt could randomly snap just like any other belt - my thoughts is that its great for circuit where the car is highly maintained but for the street...would it be a feasible option?

paul, you have a nitto pump right & its fine for your monstrous setup?

the likes of crd dont recommend external pump (unless it is an extreme application)

I run a JUN pump on mine...ive been smashing it off the limiter for a few years and now the anti-lag.

I wont be running an OEM style pump on my engine when i pull it for a freshen...external is the way to go. For all my tough street builds i exclusively use Nitto...the best.

Edited by DiRTgarage
shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
interesting question - anyone have the answer?

i question the reliability of an external oil pump although i might be on the wrong page :D ...what are the points of failure other than the 1st & obvious being the belt drive? i'd guess this belt could randomly snap just like any other belt - my thoughts is that its great for circuit where the car is highly maintained but for the street...would it be a feasible option?

paul, you have a nitto pump right & its fine for your monstrous setup?

the likes of crd dont recommend external pump (unless it is an extreme application)

If they are setup properly in the first instance there is no plausable reason why they should fail. And by setup properly i mean having the correct alignment in both planes, belt guides on BOTH pulleys & correct belt tention.

The only ways i can see that it could fail other than incorrect setup would be:

- teeth wear (same as ur cam gears though, how fast do they wear? not very fast at all)

- belt damage i.e little snick from debris hitting it etc

- bearing material passing through the pump scratching both the pump housing & gear sets (you should be running a pre-pump filter anyway)

The only downsides for running an external pump in a street based car are:

- Required to run thermo fan setup as pulley on front of balancer hits clutch fan

- Little fiddley to setup correctly

Other than that its full of win :D

P.S You should be maintaining your car properly anyway, if you let maintenance or regular checks lapse, thats when a big failure is most likely to happen.

Godzilla33 Community Regular

Godzilla33

Posted
Posted

My purchased new from nissan N1 failed 2 weeks ago, nailed 2nd, hit the limiter & thought I heard something..... checked my oil pressure to notice it was down to about 15psi & dropping to zero not long after. shut it straight off so hopefully not to much damage. been on my 26/30 making 455rwhp for about 3k, all balanced with Ati balancer, pro engines collar.

pulled the pump off to find gears smashed to pieces, minimal damage to the crank collar. Ill never use an N1 pump again, massive waste of money to buy and almost cost me a fortune in f@#ked motor. think I was lucky to catch it before massive engine failure.

The question now is what pump. I have an RB25 pump, anyone had any problems with them breaking? or does an RB30et toothed oil pump perform good enough to support twin cam setup? Thoughts?

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
My purchased new from nissan N1 failed 2 weeks ago, nailed 2nd, hit the limiter & thought I heard something..... checked my oil pressure to notice it was down to about 15psi & dropping to zero not long after. shut it straight off so hopefully not to much damage. been on my 26/30 making 455rwhp for about 3k, all balanced with Ati balancer, pro engines collar.

pulled the pump off to find gears smashed to pieces, minimal damage to the crank collar. Ill never use an N1 pump again, massive waste of money to buy and almost cost me a fortune in f@#ked motor. think I was lucky to catch it before massive engine failure.

The question now is what pump. I have an RB25 pump, anyone had any problems with them breaking? or does an RB30et toothed oil pump perform good enough to support twin cam setup? Thoughts?

Nitto pump is the only OEM style pump ill use or recommend using.

dazmo Proficient

dazmo

Posted
Posted

I will have a dry sump kit available in a week or so just waiting on the last few bits to be anodised. The kit has been tested on two 500+HP GTR's for the last 18 months without a problem. For anyone interested PM me for details.

XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

Other than the gear set's in the N1's are there any other problems/design faults to be aware of? eg if/when I run a splined collar and gear set with an oem N1 pump, will somthing else fail?

NB: In the states, N1 pumps sell for as little as 192USD + shipping. I bought 3!!!

GT-RZ Community Regular

GT-RZ

Posted
Posted

that's a bit worrying.

splines are the best option imo without opting for a dry sump. using a splined system you can use a material that does not have to be as tough as the OEM system (which is very very tough but also brittle).

Ideal gears will have the plastic deformation limit quite far from the UTS. As obviously the closer the plastic limit to the UTS the more brittle it is. Personally id rather the gears round themself off than sheer in to pieces.

what material are these splines/gears going to be made off?

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