What Is Wrong With Using A Electic Water Pump

[kris 44]

Is there anything wrong with using a electic water pump on a rb30/26 race motor as it would be cheaper then using a n1 water pump. just asking

[proengines]

No problem, they're great. Take a look at the Prodrive Ferrari's, they run 2 Davies Craig EWP's.

[Beer Baron]

yeah, the only issue I think with them in the past that I have seen has been, poor installation, or other user related problems (like not understanding what to tell the pump to do). and possibly some claims of reliability. but I would not have a problem using one, I can't possibly see how it's cheaper than using a factory or N1 water pump though. you need to get the pump, controller, a place to mount it, wiring (pretty decent current drain), do something with the factory pump housing, then plumb it all up. it's a fair bit of work and a fair cost of parts. it's not like you can just cut your radiator hose in half and stick in in, then wire it up to an on/off switch. it needs some thought to work properly.

if you do do it properly and have the controller set-up well then there are some good advantages to using one and it can control temps much better than a standard crank driven pump and wax thermostat combo. plus you can do things like have the coolant continue to circulate after shut-off to help cool things down and stop the coolant temp in the engine spiking up after shutdown (if you have a proper temp gauge check what happens to engine coolant temp after you shut off the engine!!!).

[STATUS]

the hole in your pocket and a stinging sensation is the only drawback

[Beer Baron]

that and the fact that there is nothing really wrong with the factory set-up... sure a good ewp is an improvement but it's a lot of dough to spend to fix something that aint broke.

[bubba]

Would there be a way to plumb in say an auxillary EWP in to our RB engines? purely to help cooling down after runs/laps.

[Chrispy]

I've got one for my 300ZX with a VH45DE. They are physically large and can be a bit tricky to fit in a good spot. They must NOT be run dry as they have a ceramic mechanical seal just like a house water pump. I got the digital controller with mine too, just had to drill and tap the standard pipes to suit the new CTS. I'm just blanking the standard water pump housing with some plate and have removed the standard thermostat. I'm still using the standard pipes. You could just gut the standard pump if you don't want to blank it, or wish to retain the clutch fan.

My pump was about $220 secondhand but unused, controller was $240 or so, I already had all the steel and drills and taps etc.

[Johnny]

if you do do it properly and have the controller set-up well then there are some good advantages to using one and it can control temps much better than a standard crank driven pump and wax thermostat combo. plus you can do things like have the coolant continue to circulate after shut-off to help cool things down and stop the coolant temp in the engine spiking up after shutdown (if you have a proper temp gauge check what happens to engine coolant temp after you shut off the engine!!!).

+1 i have noticed, wondered why this happens; must be an energy conduction issue. Ive seen (with my easy driving style) rises of 5degrees sometimes