Fatz Goes Racing

[Risking]

Here is the final rear steering set-up. There has been alot of interest in them and they will be for sale very shortly

The sleeves shown get welded into the tube and are right and left hand thread so adjustments are easy.

Here is the whole lot ready to be fitted, its minus a few bolts and washers but you get the idea. Id fit it up but its too bloody cold outside.

The entire lot is machined 4130, as too are the arms themselves. All Tig welded with E70S2 rods.

The rose joints are the expensive part, anyone who has ever bought good quality ones (not average ones I mean teflon inserted quality ones) will agree they are pricey but worth the cost.

The joints im using are 5/8th UNF right and left handed, Teflon insert and also 4130. Break one of these and you've done something massively wrong!

Ill get photos up shortly of the whole thing installed into the R32 arse end.

There is basicly no need for any kind of HICAS lock bar or any of the factory nissan steering arms or ball joints etc etc.

[fatz]

yea baby i am excited

[cribba31]

goodluck with the racing!!

[DJRIFT]

hey Brad. have these arms been designed to bolt up the to Non Hicas bolt holes or the factory hicas bolt holes. i would assume that they have been designed to pick up the non hicas as the other hicas point would put the arms in the wrong spot for bump steer.

[Risking]

Hicas mountings.

The idea is to have a kit anyone can install. Gtr's don't have non hicas mounts.

The inner mounting pins are actually offset by a decent ammount, I don't just wack them together I have a set of dial indicator bump gauges. The pick ups are positioned so that with adjustable traction arms the bump steer is on average +1mm total toe in @ 100mm compression from ride height.

You probably won't find any other gtr out there with factory gear that gets close to those figures. There isn't really a right spot from factory when you change so much like we have.

There is very few people who have actually ever measured bump steer properly, the factory arangement is not the greatest, the pick ups are less than ideal, something that's slowly being corrected.

That's also the reason why I haven't used an off the shelf lock bar with factory steering arms and rose jointed outters, it would have done away with the crap outter balljoints but done nothing about the other half of the problem. This is more expensive, and has taken alot longer to develop but it's right and never has to be done again.

Edited June 30, 2010 by Risking

[DJRIFT]

Hicas mountings.

The idea is to have a kit anyone can install. Gtr's don't have non hicas mounts.

The inner mounting pins are actually offset by a decent ammount, I don't just wack them together I have a set of dial indicator bump gauges. The pick ups are positioned so that with adjustable traction arms the bump steer is on average +1mm total toe in @ 100mm compression from ride height.

You probably won't find any other gtr out there with factory gear that gets close to those figures. There isn't really a right spot from factory when you change so much like we have.

There is very few people who have actually ever measured bump steer properly, the factory arangement is not the greatest, the pick ups are less than ideal, something that's slowly being corrected.

That's also the reason why I haven't used an off the shelf lock bar with factory steering arms and rose jointed outters, it would have done away with the crap outter balljoints but done nothing about the other half of the problem. This is more expensive, and has taken alot longer to develop but it's right and never has to be done again.

Thanks for a detailed reply. id been reading and taking notes on setups that i had seen recently. UAS use the non hicas pick up and so do drift works in the UK. a mate of mine was playing with his car on a lazer aligner the other night with his rear bump steer and he found his setup with a lock bar and factory arms wasnt to far out for 0 bump steer. he did move it thoe.

It brought me to the conclusion that when i finish off my modded sub frame what ever toe arms i pick ill set up the mounting points on an aligner purely because it can all differ depending on what arms and roll centre mods are used.

your hub end design is by far the best ive seen sofar.

[Risking]

How is he measuring bump steer??

The only method I use is to measure ride height center of hub to guard, level thr car on jacks.

Remove the shock and spring then re fit the shock only (normally just fit an old dead shock) bottle Jack under the lower control arm raising the hub back to ride height you measured.

I have a cut up old rim that gets bolted to the hub with vertical slides welded to it.( makes adjustments easier with less rim in the way) Dial indicators against the slides and zeroed.

Raise the bottle Jack through a sensible travel range and watch the indicators.

The jig was not hard to build or you can buy them too.

Glad you like the outter mountings. there is no reason why you can't use an original hicas arm and lock bar with it either.

[fatz]

did i mention im excited?

like a fat kid with cake

[DJRIFT]

How is he measuring bump steer??

The only method I use is to measure ride height center of hub to guard, level thr car on jacks.

Remove the shock and spring then re fit the shock only (normally just fit an old dead shock) bottle Jack under the lower control arm raising the hub back to ride height you measured.

I have a cut up old rim that gets bolted to the hub with vertical slides welded to it.( makes adjustments easier with less rim in the way) Dial indicators against the slides and zeroed.

Raise the bottle Jack through a sensible travel range and watch the indicators.

The jig was not hard to build or you can buy them too.

Glad you like the outter mountings. there is no reason why you can't use an original hicas arm and lock bar with it either.

same process just on a lazer wheel aligner so you see the change in toe camber at the same time on a screen. very easy.

[fatz]

double post yea baby

[fatz]

sorted the shocks

r33 struts

r34 bottoms

s13 caqmber top tops

they are a bitsa but they work!

in other news we upgraded jennas brakes to brembo cause im sick of flogging out stock gtr brakes

looks purtie

[sav man]

how come you went with a bitsa suspension, and not just get R32 shocks?

[fatz]

yea there may be some confusion

besides the gtr n1 race car

i have a r31 coupe with a r33 gtr rear end grafted on and dry sumped rb26/30

this on should be proper scary fast for getting me to the shops and back

thats what the above parts are for

the gtr is 100% production spec

[fatz]

well it took a month but i finally got my rear diff mount bushes

yea baby i can put the rear diff in!!!!!!

in other news jenna's car ate another master cylinder

POS!

[Duncan]

that doesn't just happen mate, something is wrong. right master cylinder push rod? brake pedal OK?

[msports180]

How do those rear steer arms bolt onto the cradle?

Look awesome, ive been playing with the rear sus on my 34, interesting to see how much of a diff the traction arms make, plan to make a jig similar to what you described to fully align it properly.

Only have a HICAS cancellor in there now, and wanted to remove the factory ball joint crap.

[SATO GTS]

AH is that why you said that you are thinking about coming up to newy this weekend?

So I can try and rectify the GTR brake issue.

[fatz]

nope im up for drinking

i care notfor brakes!

[fatz]

stupid farken brakes dont fit in my 18's

f**k!

[fatz]

well fcuk me the rear cradle is back in

it only took 3 months but its time for tail shaft and exhaust then get the fcuker log booked