Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cheers for the input lads! :)

Still, not too sure which way to go in terms of turbos.. What are you running bubba?? Single? Twins? That is really the major factor, what to bolt up to a 15/18 or 15/30 setup... :devil:

Whoa I just noticed this MAJOR typo..

I meant 25/28 or 25/30... My bad... :(

That's the problem, rebuilding an engine is never quick, be nice to have a running car and build up a spare engine instead ;)

Building an engine is the fast part, custom turbo setups aren't. We did my original 30 conversion in a weekend, drive in - drive out.

Like a mate of mine. Owns a GTI-R pulsar with a spare motor sitting on an engine hoist in his garage, he cbf working on it anymore so when he'd finished paying it all off etc, he bought a 310rwkw S15..... damn. :D Think we'd all love to have something else sitting around just in case. As for me, it's the wifes Echo ... lolz.

That's why I have the Stag :down:

Cheers for the input lads! :)

Still, not too sure which way to go in terms of turbos.. What are you running bubba?? Single? Twins? That is really the major factor, what to bolt up to a 15/18 or 15/30 setup... :)

GT35R (0.82 exh) on a 6boost manifold with a 50mm Turbosmart Progate.

Id consider the Plazmaman plenum over the Greddy, simply as I like the design better and theres less copys floating about that you might get stung with. That and it's an australian company.

I'd say a 30 would be alot cheaper (depending on how you build it ) than the Tomei 2.8 kit if you were heading down that path?

Thats really all I have on the topic, other than maybe running a surge tank as well for the fueling system?

30 is definitely cheaper than a Tomei or HKS 2.8 kit.

I would steer away from the Plazmaman plenum for a twincam 30, they are only a replacement top half of the intake manifold (retains stock runners). You're really better off with the GReddy plenum to gain back some bonnet clearance. Matey has one on his 25t/30 and it makes the numbers just fine.

I'm running a custom plenum though due to non-turbo head (same stud pattern as RB20).

The dirty30 would be a very good choice.

properly balanced and an aftermarket balancer ross/ati they will rev to 8k

be considerably cheaper then a stroker kit too

Go with a big single to save alot on buying 2x the turbos,manifolds,etc

Have a read through Cubes thread. He has a low mount rb25/30 making 400hp? on stock manifolds (i think)

however engineering a rb30 and licensing it these days might be more of an issue over a rb25 with a 2.8 stroker

+1 for all that except the licensing.. theoretically, with this new emissions testing, you should be able to get anything registered aslong as it passes the emissions test.

I'm waiting for Spool to release their 3.4 cranks for RB30s, RB34= More of a good thing and still much cheaper than Jap 2.8s.

Strong early power makes for a much nicer and faster drive.

Ditto!! When they get released I'm thinking of building up a 3.4L for the 32 and putting the old forged 30 bottom end into the Stagea :D

Mark, Speaking from experience, anything more than 400rwhp in a RWD car is overkill, yes it's fun, but impossible to get grip. I've spent more money than any sane person would and personally I'd go for a smaller responsive turbo, peak power isn't everything, response and driveability are more important.

lol i happily swap motor setups with ur pauly :laugh:

+1 with Dsturbd, f**k off the 25 and put a 26 in it, if i could go back i would have done that in the 1st place

Edited by Kaido_RR

oi bubba, that turbo you're running on the dirty30, is it low of high mount?? As I said earlier, I'd dearly love to keep it low mount, which is why I was looking at an externally gated HKS 3037... What's your opinion on that one?

High mount Marco, was a bit too big and my power goals a bit too high to use stock manifold.

There are smaller turbos that will make the power you want, something like Pauls' turbo (3076?) with a bigger exhaust housing (for the 3L exhaust flow) might fit on stock manifold.

Hiflow is another option..

Not going to retain my manifold. I'll be going aftermarket.. Cost aside, I can't see any merit in retaining my stock unit... From what I've read going aftermarket can improve response anywhere from 200 or 4 or even 5 hundred rpm.. So for what I'm trying it do, is low-mount simply impossible?? I was hoping that I could get an aftermarket low-mount manifold (either off the shelf or made up), and then go for a 3037 and have it externally gated.. It is true that a 3037 is the largest possible turbo than can be low-mounted on a skyline??

Aftermarket low mount manifolds tend to be rather crap due to the space constraints. If you want a quality manifold then 6boost highmount is the way to go.

I also think a 3037 might be a bit small for a 3L.

Street driven, super responsive, 400rwhp I believe is what Marco said at the start of the thread.

As Bubs said (Although maybe not SUPER responsive, just 'rather' responsive would suffice! :P).. Although, I know I'm being vauge, but between 400 and 500.. Preferably closer to 400, but I'm assuming that is rather dependant on which direction I go in terms of turbos... I just don't want a lumpy, undrivable, peaky little b@st@rd... Another thing I said at the start of the thread that it wasn't so much a matter of HOW much power but HOW my engine makes that power.

So in a nut shell, with displacement increase, low-mount is basically out of the question?

Thanks guys, appreciating the feedback very much! :D

Paul would be the man to chat to if you are chasing those kind of figures in the RB25DET, he is the one who has been there and done it and figured out what works ect. Plenty of people love the 35R with supporting mod's and make around that 350-400hp number. Having 500hp tend's to break lot's of shit from my experience but it's great fun.

Edited by monga

IMO the 35R is a bit big for 350-400hp.. that's more GT30 territory, I'm hoping to make a shade over 500rwhp with my GT35R and be at least as responsive as Pauls GT30'd setup.

As for low-mount being out of the question, it's not so much the displacement that says that but the power goals.. physically fitting the turbo becomes an issue. Anyway, high mount looks better and it way easier to work on!

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...