Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This thread is interesting.

I have just started using my track R32 GTS-T on the dirt stuff as well. Although I cannot compete in the full on dirt rallies as yet, I have entered into the North Queensland Khanacross series. The car is all caged out and cams log booked and I am just waiting for my rego to come through so I can enter in the dirt and tarmac rallies at a higher level.

These photo's are from two weekends ago up in Mossman.

post-25231-1251082841_thumb.jpg

post-25231-1251083127_thumb.jpg

post-25231-1251083354_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

What are peoples thoughts on actually needing turbo power in a 2wd rally car? Iam not sure, seems to just turn them into a tyre lathe.

I say this because we run a 4AGE Sprinter with a massive 80 odd rwkw (Stockish motor with quads) in the Tasmanian rally series and we are keeping up with and even beating some of the 4wd turbo cars. And there is a 2wd N/A SR20 Sunny Gti down here that regularly makes it onto the podium.

I think we need that Formula Atlantic engine to keep up with the Gti though!

A pulsar SSS with the SR20DE would destroy a stockish turbo RWD skyline... NA torque is where its at. My 1600 had a class winning motor out of a 180B put into it... in the hills on tarmac or gravel it was a SHITLOAD of fun!!!!!! short gearing, response/torque, this is why a 3.4L R31 would be my pick, and shells are peanuts

This thread is interesting.

I have just started using my track R32 GTS-T on the dirt stuff as well. Although I cannot compete in the full on dirt rallies as yet, I have entered into the North Queensland Khanacross series. The car is all caged out and cams log booked and I am just waiting for my rego to come through so I can enter in the dirt and tarmac rallies at a higher level.

These photo's are from two weekends ago up in Mossman.

post-25231-1251082841_thumb.jpg

post-25231-1251083127_thumb.jpg

post-25231-1251083354_thumb.jpg

looks like GREAT fun

I've been running an R32 rallycar for about three years now over here in NZ. Built it up from a road car.

The car started of just as a taily tank slapper on gravel, but over time we've developed the suspension and got it handling. It's such an unorthidox car with pretty much 70:30 weight split, apparently totally wrong for rallying, but we've proved them wrong with some good results, class wins and a 1st 2wd overall in sprints.

The car is built to our cc capacity rules, so it is still a 2ltr N/A with head work and ITB's.

mangatoird01ef9.jpg

sliidetaslo21.jpg

bayparkautocrossimg6403.jpg

A Silvia/180 etc would be a better car to start with, better weight ballance and the SR20 is a good donk to get N/A grunt out of. I just wanted to do it different and run a 6.

Edited by screamin'

no matter how much better FWDs are on gravel, I still wouldn't rally one.

same goes for a NA Silvia or Skyline. Everything is better with turbos! The only thing I own with wheels that doesn't have at least one turbo is the camper trailer!

I've been running an R32 rallycar for about three years now over here in NZ. Built it up from a road car.

The car started of just as a taily tank slapper on gravel, but over time we've developed the suspension and got it handling. It's such an unorthidox car with pretty much 70:30 weight split, apparently totally wrong for rallying, but we've proved them wrong with some good results, class wins and a 1st 2wd overall in sprints.

The car is built to our cc capacity rules, so it is still a 2ltr N/A with head work and ITB's.

A Silvia/180 etc would be a better car to start with, better weight ballance and the SR20 is a good donk to get N/A grunt out of. I just wanted to do it different and run a 6.

ITB sounds great!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...