Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, some of you are going to kill me for this post (hear me, Nelson?)

To those ricers that fits HID 6000K or above on your cars... u suck...

Stick with OEM 4300K, they're white, they're not yellowish.

5733_160245369568_598034568_3350368_4226374_n.jpg

Choosing an HID bulb that have less blue tint makes it easier on your eyes for long drive.

I admit I was one of those showoff ricers who fitted a bluish tint bulb on my 93 Galant when I was in Uni, and yeah, while it's for showoff,

a quick drive on the twisties revealed that I felt the bulbs did not produce as much light as I would expect or was advertised by the manufacturers.

Yes, I was a victim of fashion, and lucky I didn't pay the price by crashing into an obstacle or kangaroos on a dark, deserted, mountain road.

Things why you should never put on blu-ish headlight bulbs on:

1. Human eyes treat blue as glare and would cause pupil to be less dilated, causing reduce night visibility.

2. The higher the colour temp, the less lumen (light output) the bulb produce as well.

Oh yes, some of you may think the higher the colour the temp, the more light, is it???

WRONG...

The higher the colour temp above 4300K, the LESS the light output will be.

Why would do you reckon European car manufacturers, after all those R&D, chosen 4300K as the best HID bulbs to be fitted on cars?

Do your research... and convert before someone gets hurt from using the wrong HID bulb on the car...

Here's one website to explain why the higher the colour temp it does not make it better.

http://www.autolamps-online.com/hidonline/...scolourtemp.htm

Below is also a comparison where the left side of the photo is using 4300K HID bulb & right side using 6000K.

as you can see 4300K emits more lights than 6000K.

post-328-1250847925_thumb.jpg

The more I do search on various international forums, the more I am convinced that going 6000K or above is not the best decision to make,

except for just some wanking showoff factor...

Now... let the flaming begins... especially from 6000K lovers...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284449-car-education-get-to-know-your-hid/
Share on other sites

actually the best is 4100K from the chart. but due to availability of products on the market, i choose 4300K. if for some reason you felt 4300K still has a bit of tint yellow based on personal taste, try finding 5000K but I haven't found much HID bulbs out there outside the normally available 4300K 6000K and so on...

If it's done properly and not blinding oncoming drivers there are no reasons why it would give you troubles...

The best is to reuse the OEM ones, as some aftermarket kit can easily throw the adjustment off the line, and most important

your headlights should be a RHD JDM spec, don't put LHD USDM G35 headlights as they'll stuff up your beam dispersion the wrong way.

Keeping your headlights clean all the times also helps, or if you're very worried, i'm sure adding a couple of jetwashers on your front bumper directly across from headlight is easy to do.

If your compliance workshop threw yours one out (the ballast, ignitors, etc) then your best bet is to search through yahoo auctions or buy it off from someone here...

I agree with your write up Rianto, however I find it strange as my mate had diamond white 6000k on his car and they were as it says diamond white, and didn't seem to emit a tinge of blue... confused!

Actually the similar set to the one I have forsale below...

Edited by Pulp

6000k is bordering between starting to emit visible blue tint... depending on the shape of the reflectors on his car if it is designed to take HID as standard it may not emit as much blue-ish tint, however if compared side by side with 4300K the 4300K would provide more light output.

There were discussions about BMW cars having a slight tint of blue but it actually is where the light cutoff are, when you're driving from opposite the car then you passed its cutoff point then you'll see slight blue tint, all HID reflector does that, even though they had 4300K standard bulbs. it will just be more prominent on the higher colour temp level...

I've driven on 6000K bulb before and to my eye behind the wheels, it is slightly blue-ish, very faint... once u go beyond it it gets worse...

what car does he have? R33?

either the shape of his reflector, or is the kit really as advertised? e.g. there's no telling if the kit is actually 5000K but was advertised as 6000K by the manufacturer for some 'marketing' reason?

Hehehe....

4300k sucks....LOL...(just to tease u)...Agree with 4300k emitting more light....

I know where u r coming from with respect to the ricer feel...Some 'ricer's do up their cars nicely, while others r try-hards...(e.g. I saw some jap car with blue haze lights on the freeway at nite and the idiot; thinking he was cool; didn't have his headlights turned on. How wannabe-tryhard is that????)

Anyway, back to the topic, I'll personally go 6000k, nice and white (and just getting into the blue)....Anything above 6000k is fugly i must say...(And also attracts the boys in blue)...

My factory 4300k HID is going to be for sale soon as I find it not 'white' enough...I am going to 6000k HID D2Rs for low beams and 6000k HID H4 for hi/lo beams...When I get some time...

I've been waiting for your post, Nelson ha ha ha

when you mean your 4300K factory is for sale do u mean just the bulbs or the whole ballast thing?

Are you going with aftermarket ballast on the hi beam H4 or is that just a normal halogen with higher colour temp?

I found those blue tinted halogen really sucks... they are not that bright to start with (HID is a lot brighter than halogen)

and they added a blue tint to get to the colour temp which limit the light even further....

Rs73,

What you have said in the posts above are correct (i'm a light/torch freak.. have 35watt hid searchlights for toys and handheld maglites putting out the same light as a car on high beams)

HIDS to be properly legal on cars... the car needs a headlight washer system. The reason being if you have a dirty headlight and HIDs, it can cause glare to oncoming traffic.

My mate had a 6000k kit for awhile, it was a little blue to my eyes.. looked not bad though. But 4300k ftw.

some Xenon fitted R34 (dealer option) are legal without washer system, because they have an auto-leveling system. I've seen one in compliance shop and it's complied alright.

auto leveling is another alternative requirement when headlight washing system is not available...

but again even if your car has been fitted with auto levelling and/or washing system, if the reflector in the headlight was designed for halogen and it's fitted with HID bulb, it won't be legal, because the beam pattern will just go wrong.

  • 4 weeks later...

hi Rianto,

I'm looking at replacing the D2R bulbs on my car with 4300k bulbs. Any ideas of the best (cheaper) place to get these?? Do you have a owners manual with diagrams on how to replace these bulbs??

Cheers

I'll try find a DIY on this from the G35 forums. It would be strange that you'd need to remove bumpers to get to the lights, coz i think only the driving lights are HID, the highlight looks like normal halogens so there must be an easier way to get to them.

there is no easy way to get to them. these xenon bulbs are not meant to be replaced for the lifetime of the vehicle, I have looked around behind the lights from engine bay there's just no way to access it... from the wheel shroud might be another idea...

I think Nissan designed the lights to be non-user-serviceable item... for most common people who cbf diy.

if the high beam bulb is burnt, then its kind of like "replace it at your next dealer service"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...