Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, drove around today with no problems, but on my way back home, sounded initially like i had a flat tire, then realized was the engine.

Car sounds like a wrx (which isn't normal lol), if i'm rolling along, the engine will stutter, especially when accelerating. When travelling along, the engine will slow down then burst forward for a sec, then back down etc.

Got a booking fr Trojan on Thursday, but its a 40-50 min drive from my place, and seemed to be getting worse on the 10 min drive to my place.

Any idea what it could be? Just wondering if I should drive it on Thursday, or get it looked at by someplace close perhaps tomorrow or tuesday first.

The only weird thing I can think that happened, was yesterday, my nan was watering the garden and somehow lost the hose, went under the car and drenched the engine bay from underneath. I noticed the pod filter was a bit wet but left it overnight/day to dry and like i said, it ran fine......

If you haven't guessed, i know next to nothing about this stuff...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284648-engine-stuttering/
Share on other sites

If your pod filter's wet then it's very likely that you've gotten your airflow meter wet. Could be that. It could also be the electrical contact for the crank angle sensor has gotten wet, which isn't far from the air filter.

Could be your coilpacks starting to bomb out by coincidence, but that only really happens when you rev/boost it hard and flat footed (initially).

Does it matter if the engine's warm or not?

Thanks mate,

Nah dosn't matter if the engine is warm, drove home which was like 15-20 min drive, did it the whole way

Should mention that my engine is stock. just got the pod and zorst.

Edited by 33Sedan

my silvia (RB20) sounded like a wrx when running on 5 cylinders on idle but as soon as you started driving itd run on 6 cyls. possibly coils. just get some splitfires and see what happens.

could it be the spark plugs not firing right

I'm not sure, that was my initial thoughts. Hmmmm...... Might drive it to my local place, see whats wrong, if they gotta replace stuff i would prefer trojan to do it - except not really wanting to drive it all the way there lol.

.......or depending if you can get it to do it at idle

easy way to test the coils is by unplugging them one at a time. whichever one doesn't make a difference.... will have some issue with it.

man i had the exactly same issues here. my RB25de Neo have some trouble with missfiring. because it sounds like a WRX. probably chilling winter in canberra?

if u start the car in the morning (or when the engine is cold) it sounds ok for 5 minutes (because the car automatically retard the firing). after 5 mins the timing gets advanced to normal state, thats when the engine sounds like WRX.

i'm opening my intake plenum now and will open the cover tomorrow to check and replace the spark plugs / coils / looms. or even injectors.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ne...49#entry4774549

if u'll bring it to local workshop, will u share the answers with me?

cheers.

.......or depending if you can get it to do it at idle

easy way to test the coils is by unplugging them one at a time. whichever one doesn't make a difference.... will have some issue with it.

One thing he's forgotten to tell you though don't unplug them/plug them in while the car's running... right James? :D

OMG TOOK THE SPARK PLUGS OUT WHILE IT WAS RUNNING AND THE ENGINE WON"T START NOW>.......

just kidding ;-)

Thanks guys, getting it towed to trojan tomorrow. gtrkat, your price was spot on! Thanks!

Trojan thinks it could be the spark plugs or coil packs ;-)

Will see on wed/thurs. Hopefully won't break my bank account...fingers crossed!

Good luck mate, i had an issue with mine not long ago where it would just stop accelerating all together, then it'd kick back in and cut back out, all within the space of a few seconds. Took it to Ed at AutoTech and it turned out to be the solder on the wires in the AFM had come loose and were barely making contact causing the PowerFC to think there was no airflow coming in and cutting the power. To make matters worse had a grounding issue at the same time and one problem masked the other.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...