Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

I have abit of an issue with my car (r34 gtr) at the moment and just wondering if you guys might be able to lend a hand and give me some ideas on what the issue could be. Installed a pair of HKS2530's that I purchased from a forumer not long ago. Put the car on the dyno for a tune last weekend and the car wouldnt boost over 0.6Bar. We took off the waste gate vacuum line to test the boost but still, it would not go over 0.6Bar.

I did a quick search on here and seems the usual troubleshoots are to check the lines and cooler piping. I went and got a 'smoke test' done on the car to see if there was a leak and where it could be coming from. There was no leak.

Im abit stumped as to what it could be...could cam timing cause this boost issue?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284746-car-not-boosting-past-06barhelp/
Share on other sites

Hey man, i had a similar issue with mine; on the dyno getting tuned with a newly installed evc it wouldnt boost past 0.5-0.6 bar. At first they checked vacumn lines n found nothing so we thought it was an issue with actuators or the boost controller but after careful check it turned out to be a vacumn line, not sure which one but it gave rob from creatd ms a headache for a couple of hours.

I remember vaguely somewhere under the plenum???

hope you sort it out mate, good luck!

Hey man, i had a similar issue with mine; on the dyno getting tuned with a newly installed evc it wouldnt boost past 0.5-0.6 bar. At first they checked vacumn lines n found nothing so we thought it was an issue with actuators or the boost controller but after careful check it turned out to be a vacumn line, not sure which one but it gave rob from creatd ms a headache for a couple of hours.

I remember vaguely somewhere under the plenum???

hope you sort it out mate, good luck!

thanks for the reply man. I will probably be changing out the vacuum lines just for good measure. Hopefully that fixes things. Although, it should have boosted as we took out the wastegate vacuum line? did your mechanic try that when you had your problem?

thanks for the reply man. I will probably be changing out the vacuum lines just for good measure. Hopefully that fixes things. Although, it should have boosted as we took out the wastegate vacuum line? did your mechanic try that when you had your problem?

Hey man, npz i jst hope you get it sorted so you can enjoy your car.

we didnt try anything with the gates as that could be quite dangerous, found the problem beofre anything like that had to be attempted. Could it be the turbos? are they new?

maybe check to see if the installation was done right, gaskets etc or maybe its the intake rubber pipes sucking shut when it reaches 0.5bar

i dunno just throwing ideas around now cos i have no idea

goodluck bro, keep us updated

I had similar problem with hks gt-ss turbos not boosting up, no matter how much I tried winding into them. Same thing with disconnecting actuator lines. Turned out to be collapsed cat converter - the more the car revved, the more backpressure was created so no extra boost. Drop the exhaust at y pipe and see what happens before you go any further. It's turned me off running cats ever again after that.

I had similar problem with hks gt-ss turbos not boosting up, no matter how much I tried winding into them. Same thing with disconnecting actuator lines. Turned out to be collapsed cat converter - the more the car revved, the more backpressure was created so no extra boost. Drop the exhaust at y pipe and see what happens before you go any further. It's turned me off running cats ever again after that.

I have actually de-catted my cat (looks like a compliance cat), to prevent that from happening.

definately frustrating as I cant wait to wake up these turbos.

update:

still havnt figured out what wrong with it yet.

Pulled off the cam gear cover and found that the car came with Tomei Adjustable cam gears....which brings me to my question. Can cam timing affect boost? As i suspect the timing is off.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...