Jump to content
SAU Community

Alarm Problems

Coxie

By Coxie,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Coxie Contributor

Coxie

Posted
Posted

Ok so I had the battery out of my car to give it a charge as I havent used the car for awhile. Put the battery back in (did accidently arc the spanner out on the parcel tray) and alarm was still working (disarming immobiliser)tried starting the car but the battery did not have enough grunt to start the engine. After checking if the terminals were tight and secure, shortly after I heard 3 beeps from the alarm, as if I had kicked the tyre or sumthing. I then tried to start the car again, but the immobilizer would not disarm, I can see the light on the remote flicker but I am not getting any response from the car. Strange thing is that when I watch the LED on my steering column flashing and I had down the button on my remote, this LED will stop flashing, so the alarm is obviously recieving some signal from the remote. Have checked all fuses, but can't find anything wrong.

Car is r33 gtst s2, unsure of alarm type as there are no brand names on the remote or the black alarm box under the dash.

Anybody have any idea what could be wrong?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285157-alarm-problems/
Share on other sites
Coxie Contributor

Coxie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I managed to track down what kind of alarm it is and found a manual, it appears to be a mongoose M60 Series. And with reading of the manual I think what has happened is when I tried to start the car the 2nd time, but battery was flat so just turned ignition on and off repeatedly, the right amount of times to put the alarm into remote learning mode, which would explain the 3 short beeps shortly after. And since I didn't repsond with my remote it deleted it from memory and now has no remotes programmed to work with it. The problem here is to get back into remote learning mode I have to disarm the alarm before switching the ignition on and off 3 times, but I can't disarm the alarm without a remote... so I'm stuck. There must be some way of disarming the alarm without needing a remote...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285157-alarm-problems/#findComment-4791131
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...