Jump to content
SAU Community

Alarm Problems

Coxie

By Coxie,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Coxie Contributor

Coxie

Posted
Posted

Ok so I had the battery out of my car to give it a charge as I havent used the car for awhile. Put the battery back in (did accidently arc the spanner out on the parcel tray) and alarm was still working (disarming immobiliser)tried starting the car but the battery did not have enough grunt to start the engine. After checking if the terminals were tight and secure, shortly after I heard 3 beeps from the alarm, as if I had kicked the tyre or sumthing. I then tried to start the car again, but the immobilizer would not disarm, I can see the light on the remote flicker but I am not getting any response from the car. Strange thing is that when I watch the LED on my steering column flashing and I had down the button on my remote, this LED will stop flashing, so the alarm is obviously recieving some signal from the remote. Have checked all fuses, but can't find anything wrong.

Car is r33 gtst s2, unsure of alarm type as there are no brand names on the remote or the black alarm box under the dash.

Anybody have any idea what could be wrong?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285157-alarm-problems/
Share on other sites
Coxie Contributor

Coxie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I managed to track down what kind of alarm it is and found a manual, it appears to be a mongoose M60 Series. And with reading of the manual I think what has happened is when I tried to start the car the 2nd time, but battery was flat so just turned ignition on and off repeatedly, the right amount of times to put the alarm into remote learning mode, which would explain the 3 short beeps shortly after. And since I didn't repsond with my remote it deleted it from memory and now has no remotes programmed to work with it. The problem here is to get back into remote learning mode I have to disarm the alarm before switching the ignition on and off 3 times, but I can't disarm the alarm without a remote... so I'm stuck. There must be some way of disarming the alarm without needing a remote...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285157-alarm-problems/#findComment-4791131
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • soviet_merlin
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...