Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i run the 3076r 0.82 (external gate version) on a freshened stock internal 26/30 (so lowish comp around 8:1 from memory), its making 18psi at roughly 2900rpm

Sweet! I think that bodes well for my 1bar by 3000rpm expectation for the GT35R :D

Thanks GT-RZ and Bubba thats most helpfull, I think I will freshen up the the stock bottem end, with new rings, bearings and hone.

Also looking at my turbo options.

Considering a 3076r .82 A/R, when does this turbo make full boost, and what kind of power would I make with this turbo. I would like it to be responsive, and maintain and beefy and linear power curve.

that would be my choice of turbo, decent power and torque without much boost the nistune should have no dramas tuning up perfect providing its done right. The r32 ecu's are actually quite good.

bubba, i will be able to tell you what mine gets in a couple of weeks (GT35R 0.82 rear, 25/30 with 9.4:1 comp, ETM manifold, external gate) should be fairly comparable with your setup.

Nice! Pretty similar to mine except I've got 6boost manifold with 50mm progate and my compression is only like 7.5:1 due to my engine being originally built before people made 30DET pistons.. guess that just means I can wind a shitload of boost and timing into it :thumbsup:

That's another reason why I'm not putting huge cams in, with the low compression and huge cams it'd probably be a complete pig off boost!

I'm holding off sending my bits to be balanced as I'm waiting for some splined oil pump gears :D

Edited by bubba
that would be my choice of turbo, decent power and torque without much boost the nistune should have no dramas tuning up perfect providing its done right. The r32 ecu's are actually quite good.

Trent do you have any idea of where the power tappers off with this turbo. I am not going for highest KW figure, just somthing usable, but if there isnt much to play with after 5000rpm then would consider mayb a gt35 or a 1.06 A/r for the gt30.

  • 2 weeks later...

Still in two worlds about what to do.

So many people say dont bother touching the 200K + bottom end, just bolt the head on and go for it! "you will be suprised how much they will handle" Just keep revs below 6500.

others

Atleast new bearings rings and hone.

Also undecided, I can afford either a new turbo gt3076r, or prep the bottom end properly. As my power goal is more of a beefy/reliable 250-270rwkw will using my GCG highflow be of any danger to the motor? Will the power just be too peaky and unusable?

Build the bottom end properly, then save for a real turbo.

I drove my 30 with a 25 turbo on there for over a year, drove like a diesel but still fun, just couldn't rev it past 6000rpm (power nosed over at 5800rpm and by the time it got to the 6800rpm limiter it was only making 90hp!).

i run the 3076r 0.82 (external gate version) on a freshened stock internal 26/30 (so lowish comp around 8:1 from memory), its making 18psi at roughly 2900rpm

Loaded up on a dyno on 4th?

Or on the street in 2nd/3rd where you spend most of the time :P

Still in two worlds about what to do.

So many people say dont bother touching the 200K + bottom end, just bolt the head on and go for it! "you will be suprised how much they will handle" Just keep revs below 6500.

others

Atleast new bearings rings and hone.

Also undecided, I can afford either a new turbo gt3076r, or prep the bottom end properly. As my power goal is more of a beefy/reliable 250-270rwkw will using my GCG highflow be of any danger to the motor? Will the power just be too peaky and unusable?

well if you don't mind putting in a stock bottom end and having a guess if it will last then it's up too you? personally i wouldn't want to rip my motor out just because i now realize it's blowing like crap and the 20yo rings needed replacing...

bearings, rings, hone then at least you have an old component motor running like new. plus doing that wont cost too much.

well if you don't mind putting in a stock bottom end and having a guess if it will last then it's up too you? personally i wouldn't want to rip my motor out just because i now realize it's blowing like crap and the 20yo rings needed replacing...

bearings, rings, hone then at least you have an old component motor running like new. plus doing that wont cost too much.

I see it this way... a new motor with me replacing it costs around $500...

I'm gunna put an old one in and wind the boost right up into it...

i see it as waste of time. I'd rather do things right the first time. i'd be an unhappy man if i built a motor then to rip it out a month later because i never gave it new rings.

might be lucky, might not be. i don't have the time to take the gamble and rip my car to pieces because i was lazy the first time round.

Loaded up on a dyno on 4th?

Or on the street in 2nd/3rd where you spend most of the time :P

on the street actually on a 3rd or 4th gear from low rpm run, havent been on a dyno yet to see, its been street tuned. This setup in a r32 or 33 would be awesome, in the stagea i have it in it is just abit heavy, though it goes alright and still only have a crap 2.5' muffler on it which i think is killing the top end.

i see it as waste of time. I'd rather do things right the first time. i'd be an unhappy man if i built a motor then to rip it out a month later because i never gave it new rings.

might be lucky, might not be. i don't have the time to take the gamble and rip my car to pieces because i was lazy the first time round.

If you're building it to last, sure...

But whilst you're there you should do the oil pump, all the mods, custom sump, forged pistons etc...

I wouldn't trust 20 year old pistons to last, even with fresh rings and hone...

My "stock" bottom end RB30, will be exactly that... STOCK...

I'll let you all know how many minutes it lasts... :)

i found a large lip in the bores of mine so bored it to 86.5mm and threw in some Endurotech cast pistons which are supposed to be abit stronger than stockies and allow for a good piston to bore clearance rather than honing worn bores. The pistons were only $320 with rings so about $200 for the actual pistons (as rings are around $120 anyway) which is bugger all and mine are running 18psi no dramas at moment and i will building another engine the same as this for my track car and throw my hks t04z on it and see how long it will last for abit of cheap fun :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...