Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i run the 3076r 0.82 (external gate version) on a freshened stock internal 26/30 (so lowish comp around 8:1 from memory), its making 18psi at roughly 2900rpm

Sweet! I think that bodes well for my 1bar by 3000rpm expectation for the GT35R :D

Thanks GT-RZ and Bubba thats most helpfull, I think I will freshen up the the stock bottem end, with new rings, bearings and hone.

Also looking at my turbo options.

Considering a 3076r .82 A/R, when does this turbo make full boost, and what kind of power would I make with this turbo. I would like it to be responsive, and maintain and beefy and linear power curve.

that would be my choice of turbo, decent power and torque without much boost the nistune should have no dramas tuning up perfect providing its done right. The r32 ecu's are actually quite good.

bubba, i will be able to tell you what mine gets in a couple of weeks (GT35R 0.82 rear, 25/30 with 9.4:1 comp, ETM manifold, external gate) should be fairly comparable with your setup.

Nice! Pretty similar to mine except I've got 6boost manifold with 50mm progate and my compression is only like 7.5:1 due to my engine being originally built before people made 30DET pistons.. guess that just means I can wind a shitload of boost and timing into it :thumbsup:

That's another reason why I'm not putting huge cams in, with the low compression and huge cams it'd probably be a complete pig off boost!

I'm holding off sending my bits to be balanced as I'm waiting for some splined oil pump gears :D

Edited by bubba
that would be my choice of turbo, decent power and torque without much boost the nistune should have no dramas tuning up perfect providing its done right. The r32 ecu's are actually quite good.

Trent do you have any idea of where the power tappers off with this turbo. I am not going for highest KW figure, just somthing usable, but if there isnt much to play with after 5000rpm then would consider mayb a gt35 or a 1.06 A/r for the gt30.

  • 2 weeks later...

Still in two worlds about what to do.

So many people say dont bother touching the 200K + bottom end, just bolt the head on and go for it! "you will be suprised how much they will handle" Just keep revs below 6500.

others

Atleast new bearings rings and hone.

Also undecided, I can afford either a new turbo gt3076r, or prep the bottom end properly. As my power goal is more of a beefy/reliable 250-270rwkw will using my GCG highflow be of any danger to the motor? Will the power just be too peaky and unusable?

Build the bottom end properly, then save for a real turbo.

I drove my 30 with a 25 turbo on there for over a year, drove like a diesel but still fun, just couldn't rev it past 6000rpm (power nosed over at 5800rpm and by the time it got to the 6800rpm limiter it was only making 90hp!).

i run the 3076r 0.82 (external gate version) on a freshened stock internal 26/30 (so lowish comp around 8:1 from memory), its making 18psi at roughly 2900rpm

Loaded up on a dyno on 4th?

Or on the street in 2nd/3rd where you spend most of the time :P

Still in two worlds about what to do.

So many people say dont bother touching the 200K + bottom end, just bolt the head on and go for it! "you will be suprised how much they will handle" Just keep revs below 6500.

others

Atleast new bearings rings and hone.

Also undecided, I can afford either a new turbo gt3076r, or prep the bottom end properly. As my power goal is more of a beefy/reliable 250-270rwkw will using my GCG highflow be of any danger to the motor? Will the power just be too peaky and unusable?

well if you don't mind putting in a stock bottom end and having a guess if it will last then it's up too you? personally i wouldn't want to rip my motor out just because i now realize it's blowing like crap and the 20yo rings needed replacing...

bearings, rings, hone then at least you have an old component motor running like new. plus doing that wont cost too much.

well if you don't mind putting in a stock bottom end and having a guess if it will last then it's up too you? personally i wouldn't want to rip my motor out just because i now realize it's blowing like crap and the 20yo rings needed replacing...

bearings, rings, hone then at least you have an old component motor running like new. plus doing that wont cost too much.

I see it this way... a new motor with me replacing it costs around $500...

I'm gunna put an old one in and wind the boost right up into it...

i see it as waste of time. I'd rather do things right the first time. i'd be an unhappy man if i built a motor then to rip it out a month later because i never gave it new rings.

might be lucky, might not be. i don't have the time to take the gamble and rip my car to pieces because i was lazy the first time round.

Loaded up on a dyno on 4th?

Or on the street in 2nd/3rd where you spend most of the time :P

on the street actually on a 3rd or 4th gear from low rpm run, havent been on a dyno yet to see, its been street tuned. This setup in a r32 or 33 would be awesome, in the stagea i have it in it is just abit heavy, though it goes alright and still only have a crap 2.5' muffler on it which i think is killing the top end.

i see it as waste of time. I'd rather do things right the first time. i'd be an unhappy man if i built a motor then to rip it out a month later because i never gave it new rings.

might be lucky, might not be. i don't have the time to take the gamble and rip my car to pieces because i was lazy the first time round.

If you're building it to last, sure...

But whilst you're there you should do the oil pump, all the mods, custom sump, forged pistons etc...

I wouldn't trust 20 year old pistons to last, even with fresh rings and hone...

My "stock" bottom end RB30, will be exactly that... STOCK...

I'll let you all know how many minutes it lasts... :)

i found a large lip in the bores of mine so bored it to 86.5mm and threw in some Endurotech cast pistons which are supposed to be abit stronger than stockies and allow for a good piston to bore clearance rather than honing worn bores. The pistons were only $320 with rings so about $200 for the actual pistons (as rings are around $120 anyway) which is bugger all and mine are running 18psi no dramas at moment and i will building another engine the same as this for my track car and throw my hks t04z on it and see how long it will last for abit of cheap fun :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
    • Do you have some data like fuel pressure? It's really hard to say if you're still fighting a fuel system issue at this point. Could be something weird like the FPCM dipping out.
    • Yeah in that case, pulling the dent out. Event a very slight dent can create a lot of work filler-wise and there is a strong chance the panel won't be the factory shape when you are done (as the dent will result in a new high point created somewhere, then everything is brought up to that new high point... but the panel shouldn't be that high if that makes sense).  So you've filled and primed the panel and it is flat, why would you go back and remove the primer and add more filler? 
    • Something else I have been faffing with while the car was off the road is making the AC work. Assuming the car isn't at a thermal limit the idea of having AC while waiting in line to go on track sounds delightful. I have actually been lugging around the weight of the entire system since 2018 when the RB25NEO went in without it working at all.  The main reason was in the first few events before I got around to re-gassing it the rubber hose that runs under the manifold had the factory heat wrap/sleeve fail resulting in this: ~2 years ago I purchased a complete used R32 AC line set but when I finally went to install it the line i needed was different where the expansion section is I found a local place that was able to replace the rubber section and re-crimp. They also added some modern heat sleeve to the hose Tight fit but fingers crossed this is the last physical piece of the puzzle needed
    • the top black section is bonded to the silver section with some form of rubber. I assume to isolated NVH from the box
×
×
  • Create New...