Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just consolidating multiple threads into one for some left over parts.. all items are used but in good condition.

Prefer pickup in Melbourne for most items or postage at buyer's cost.

email [email protected]

r34 gtr boot lid silver colour $120

r34 gtr vspec rear bar, bayside blue $400

r34 gtr front bar silver colour (no lip) $300

r34 gtr front bar lower carbon lip (needs repair) $200

r34 gtt tail light covers $120

r34 gtt Greddy s-type coilovers, 6 months old. $1850

r34 gtt Greddy coilover electronic in-car damper controllers $450 (will do a better price if bought with coilovers)

r34 gtt Cusco 1.5 way type-MZ limited slip differential $1000

r34 gtt denso 670cc injectors + aftermarket rb25-neo fuel rail $800

r34 gtt Bride drivers seat rail for bucket seats (e.g. Zeta III, Guardis III) $200

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285692-r34-parts-gt-t-and-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

hey mate with the injectors and fuel rail is there anything else needed for a straight fit for a neo?

Also would they be a little over kill for around 250-260 rwkw?

The injectors will provide plenty of headroom for above 250kw. In case you want more power later, trust me you always want more power to the wheels :( All that's needed is some braided lines to run to your standard fuel line/filter.

hay buddy

would the diff be too hardcore for street driving

No way! the diff is perfectly streetable, I had no issues at all with street use. A 1.5 way diff is a good trade-off between track and street use. A 2-way i'd only use on the track. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...