Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was hoping for some advice on building an R33 series 3 GTR, that will see about 50km per week road use, and hopefully about 6-8 track days / driver education days per year. Currently making 240rwkw with standard turbos and computer. Aiming for approx 300rwkw. The engine has covered a lot of km's (170k) but came from Japan bone stock and has 155psi compression across all cylinders. Engine wise, currently have the following parts ready to go on:

- 2860-7 turbos

- Sard 700cc injectors

- Power FC

- Oil catch can

- Jaycar EBC

- Meridian Oil cooler.

- Will get Z32 afm's and fuel pump / surge tank

My mechanic has suggested

- Taking off the head to assess the state of the piston heads, and tap in an oil restrictor.

- Changing to full braided lines when installing the new turbos

- N1 oil pump

- 100km service kit with all new gaskets, cam belt, stud kit, water pump etc

- Sump extension

Seem reasonable? Would anyone recommend any other worthwhile additions? Has done a lot of km's, a less fun but ? more sensible alternative would be to install the EBC and power FC, be happy with 250rwkw and try not to go above 7500 rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286521-advice-on-road-track-r33-gtr-build/
Share on other sites

I'd go the -9's, by all accounts they are the better turbo choice.

As for taking the head off, i cant really see the justification there.

If the compression and so on in excellent (as you've said), then there clearly isn't anything wrong underneath.

Brained lines - totally forget that idea, waste of good money. The stock lines are excellent and the most reliable option.

Just get them flushed when changing turbos if your worried about anything.

Sump... mmm If it were me? I'd say no as well. Simply overfilling 1ltr will do the job there.

You want Nismo AFM's, not Z32's (perfectrun have them the cheapest)

The other stuff looks like a good plan - although you are missing on key thing -

Cam Gears! Correctly dialled in they will increase response and make it a much more crisp car, worthwhile addition to any RB26 mod plan.

I dunno why you would want to scrimp on the EBC, Gizzmo MS-IBC is simple and cheap which does the job (6 different boost settings you can't go wrong).

Don't bother with a N1 pump (just search), the stock pump should be fine as long as you do keep it under 7500rpm, but in your situation I would go with a Nitto pump or a external wet sump oiling system (cost works out to be the about the same as a jap pump).

If keeping your sump, I would put a jap baffle plate (Tomei, Nismo etc) or a similiar trap door baffle plate. I think I've read somewhere on here the stock sump can take half a litre or more of oil if the paint inside the sump is removed?

Trust make a nice sump extension+modified oil picked+baffle plate kit, Hi Octane Racing do something similar: http://hioctaneracing.com.au/eshop/product...products_id=972

As for oil catch can I recommend either the Mine's type triple flow cam covers (if the mechanic is going to look at the head) or a autech type oil/air seperator, oil starvation is the RB's biggest enemy.

If you still have the stock airbox, put a K&N high flow filter in there.

I would go with -9's too.

Thanks heaps for the excellent advice. Agree with Nismoid. Dont want to do what doesnt need to be done at this level of tune.

Changing mechanics. Have it booked into Racepace fri week. Going with dash 7s (as I already have them), cam gears, fuel pump, oil cooler, keeping the standard AFMs and injectors, and the head stays on. Will be happy with a safe 280rwkw and good response, for the moment...

Thanks again!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...