Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone.

Just had a quick flick through the wheel guide as I am trying to decide on some wheels for my 33 GTR. At this stage it has come to TE37's. I didnt fancy any of the slightly cheaper Work range and dont really want to fork out for LMGT's. The only problem is that im not sure on sizing or offset. Im only really sure of width, and 9.5 all round is what im aiming for.

Is 18" enough to archieve a nice look? Can I get away with 19" or will it spoil the car?

Ive googled around but cant find many 33's with TE37's that have the specs to match, if anyone has had to work through this dilema before your help would be greatly appreciated.

Oh the line is white with standard GTR bodykit and I was thinking of going with the bronze finish...

Cheers,

Justin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286843-volk-te37-question/
Share on other sites

Hey everyone.

Just had a quick flick through the wheel guide as I am trying to decide on some wheels for my 33 GTR. At this stage it has come to TE37's. I didnt fancy any of the slightly cheaper Work range and dont really want to fork out for LMGT's. The only problem is that im not sure on sizing or offset. Im only really sure of width, and 9.5 all round is what im aiming for.

Is 18" enough to archieve a nice look? Can I get away with 19" or will it spoil the car?

Ive googled around but cant find many 33's with TE37's that have the specs to match, if anyone has had to work through this dilema before your help would be greatly appreciated.

Oh the line is white with standard GTR bodykit and I was thinking of going with the bronze finish...

Cheers,

Justin

Nice choice of rims, Heres some nice pics for you..

+22 through to +15 will sit flush on the guards

Cheers

Johno

^^Yeah same.

Mine are +22, 17" rims, Volk TE37's.

18" wheels are the most I would go.

18" seems to be the best size for the R33 GTR, although they came with 17", cuz it is quite a longish / bigger car, it needs 18" just to top it off.

Thanks for the quick response. Awesome. Well thats what im after with the offset too so thats settled.

Johno is that your 33 in the first picture with the white te's? That is exactly the look im after... Are they 18's or 19'?

The 32 looks good too man with 17's...

Erm.. I thought LMGT4s and TE37 are pretty similiar in price arent they? But I heard they stop making the LMGT4s.

Go on the Rays Engineering website and they have the full list of offset for clearing the brakes and the offsets for different cars. Stick with that and you cant go wrong.

18" seems to be the best size for the R33 GTR, although they came with 17", cuz it is quite a longish / bigger car, it needs 18" just to top it off.

+1. Unless you're doing up the car for show if not stick with 18s. If you're getting 18 TE37, get 18" x 10.5 +22 and they'll look awesome.

My LMGT4s are 18" x 9.5 +15 with 285/35 tyres. Have a look in the garage page if you're interested in photos of the car.

Hey Brandon. Just checked your pics out. Our cars are almost identical except for yours being an N1 edish... nice. Even your old bronze rims looked good!

Im still set with the TE37's and will most likely go with the offset you recommend. Thanks for the help guys. I will keep scouting for pics. I like the white but my old GTS-T had white and it wasnt the most fun to keep clean. Will still keep it in mind but want to see what silver and bronze will look like.

Cheers for the help.

Yea, they're not fun to maintain. I'll have to clean them every week to keep them white. Gonna have to buy new Nismo decals for them too. If you cant be bothered cleaning, bronze is definately the colour to get. The bronze Work I had were perfect for that. You cant even tell if its dirty unless you're right in front of them.

  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I have just been through the same thing myself. I ended up going for a bronze set of 19 X 9.5 + 12 which is the recommended width and offset from Nismo.

Linky Check that out. Although a 34 the 9.5 + 12 sits pretty much perfect. The 19's also have the "dish"... 18's do not

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...