Jump to content
SAU Community

H4 Oil Pump (high Flow L24-28 Part #15010-s8000)

noddle

By noddle,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted

Stewart Wilkins does an Hi Volume pump, brand new for $170.00 including GST plus postage that he uses in all his rally rebuilds. He tells me it is every bit as good as the genuine H4 pump out of the Auto 280ZX Turbo. http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/

It's probably as good a price as you will get in US$ plus postage.

I have a couple of under models, the manual L28ET came out with an H3.3 & some L20ET's came out with the H3.3 or H3.

What's in your motor now???

Cheers, D

noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Stewart Wilkins does an Hi Volume pump, brand new for $170.00 including GST plus postage that he uses in all his rally rebuilds. He tells me it is every bit as good as the genuine H4 pump out of the Auto 280ZX Turbo. http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/

It's probably as good a price as you will get in US$ plus postage.

I have a couple of under models, the manual L28ET came out with an H3.3 & some L20ET's came out with the H3.3 or H3.

What's in your motor now???

Cheers, D

L24, running a turbo, I'm wanting to add a oil cooler.

from my research, the H4 comes out of a 280zxt AUTO (these had oil coolers), these are high volume, not high pressure.

I believe the rotor is 40mm not 35 like the normal one, do you know if the Stewart Wilkins has the longer rotor, or a tighter spring to up the pressure ?

Nigel

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
L24, running a turbo, I'm wanting to add a oil cooler.

from my research, the H4 comes out of a 280zxt AUTO (these had oil coolers), these are high volume, not high pressure.

I believe the rotor is 40mm not 35 like the normal one, do you know if the Stewart Wilkins has the longer rotor, or a tighter spring to up the pressure ?

Nigel

Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm!

No understand you???

The SWR pump is an High Volume pump & where is there a spring anywhere in the pump???

What longer rotor???

And the spring that I know relating to pressure is in the relief valve.

JFYI .................. The H4 pump is getting thin on the ground & my question to what has your motor got now was in relation to the oil pump, not what your doing???

Cheers, D

noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Hummmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm!

No understand you???

The SWR pump is an High Volume pump & where is there a spring anywhere in the pump???

What longer rotor???

And the spring that I know relating to pressure is in the relief valve.

JFYI .................. The H4 pump is getting thin on the ground & my question to what has your motor got now was in relation to the oil pump, not what your doing???

Cheers, D

Hi,

I took this from another site, as you can see, the H4 (left) has a longer rotor, thus moving more oil per turn

( http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150165 )

the spring I'm referring to is the one in the relief valve, I believe some have a higher pressure spring, thus making the pump , pump at a higher pressure,

I need to look at what pump I have to see what numbers are on it, but when I brought it 4 - 5 years ago, it was for a L24,

Nigel

post-13098-1252327348_thumb.jpg

post-13098-1252327420_thumb.jpg

post-13098-1252327430_thumb.jpg

Edited by noddle
Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
Hi,

I took this from another site, as you can see, the H4 (left) has a longer rotor, thus moving more oil per turn

( http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150165 )

the spring I'm referring to is the one in the relief valve, I believe some have a higher pressure spring, thus making the pump , pump at a higher pressure,

I need to look at what pump I have to see what numbers are on it, but when I brought it 4 - 5 years ago, it was for a L24,

Nigel

I'll check mine today and get back to you on the pumps, because I have both here.

As for oil pressure, just pack the spring with a washer or two and don't go overboard, it's amazing what one washer will do to the oil pressure. Start with one and see what you get. It's a trick we used back in the BMC A & B series engine days.

Remember where Nissan got their 1200 Bluebird engine from, it was a re designed Austin A40 engine, from blueprints they bought from BMC in UK.

Cheers, D

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
Did you end up comparing them ?

Nigel

I'm going to do it Tuesday/Wednesday when I'm off.

Got to buzy last week, but I found this on ebay USA.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-DATS...sQ5fAccessories

Cheers, D

  • 2 weeks later...
noddle Rising Star

noddle

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
i have an h4 pump

its ok needs rebuild (engine siezed) thus it had rubish go through it ..

as is $100 ono?

Marc

I would assume to 'rebuild it' would to be 'replace it', I've used a second hand pump years ago, that's why I brought a new one back then..

Same pump was also fitted to z18et and z24 motors, just for informations sake

Do you have part numbers for these ?

Nigel

Edited by noddle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • sonicii
      Could it really happen......

      By sonicii · Posted

      I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • MBS206
      Could it really happen......

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...