Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey im looking at buyin a car.

I was thinkin I might wait till say mid-way to late next year.

I currently own a 91 Nissan Exa (1.8L N/A FWD)

Nice car to look at in my opinion

But in truth i want a R33 Gts-t... Say an all white one with a nice kit on it.

I think if i save round 20k I could get myself a damn nice one ay??

I was lookin at over east becoz they seem to have a way bigger range at lower prices... i think that sux :)

Anywayz I think prices will be dropping throughout next year as more and more R34s get imported.. much like the price drop of the R32s as the R33s became more and more common.

What do you all think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28702-suggested-car-to-buy/
Share on other sites

I think the idea of getting an R33 is nice

good plan they are solid hard wearing cars with plenty of bang for your buck so to speak

$20,000 is also a good idea.

The problem I see is a slight misconception of the prices these cars are compared to what each individual example is worth.

I am sure you have heard about companies that import cars directly from japan really cheaply etc.

My opinion is that these companies sometimes bring in less than excellent examples of these cars. So you pay SFA alot of the time. When these buyers are reselling their cars they usually sell them for similar prices to what they paid because there is no sense delaying sales for no reason.

This is what leads to alot of cars being really cheap.

Others have paid good money for good quality cars in excellent condition. These buyers are the ones you see selling vehicles for what sometimes seems like extraordinary amounts of money when you consider the age of the vehicles.

You will also start to find that the owners of skylines that are online on this forum are very very fastidious owners who genuinely care for their cars and really its thanks to these owners that you can pay "a little extra" for the car but you are guaranteed a good example.

Its hard to say because everyone is on a budget, but dont let price guide you too much when looking for ones of these cars. You will find that you will start to think they are all the same poor condition cars, until you step out of the price range and look at something a little more that you will discover the difference.

I hope i havent offended anyone who looks after their cars and I hope that those that do not start to, there is nothing worse than trying to sell a neglected car.

Good luck in your search.... dont worry it wont take long!!

RiaZ

Hey bro, thanks for da advice

My big problem is that theres so much more range in the eastern states ;)

Its not fair hehe

But you can find lovely cars here for around 15k and above really (r33s).

So when im gonna look for one im def going to take my time, and prob be looking at private sales, weather it be from this forum or from the autotrader etc, i find private sales give you more for your money esp people who love there cars but need to go overseas or need the money, this is where your real money savers are found!! And you just gotta love that :) hehe

Thanks

neone elses comments would be appreciated! Mainly people from Perth becoz thats where i am and gonna be looking :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...