Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all i'm new around these parts been browsing the forums for a while. I've had my Stagea for about 5 weeks now it was purchased stock.

Its a 2000 Model RS four S can't drive it enough loving it at the moment.

Has a few mods now:

FMIC

Pod Filter

Rims and Sub/Amp etc

Just a few pics that were taken on the weekend.

9130_131891375833_584215833_2948392_1833317_n.jpg 9130_131891380833_584215833_2948393_5835958_n.jpg

9130_131891410833_584215833_2948397_5963463_n.jpg

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287047-my-stagea/
Share on other sites

Mention that it was totally stock as a rock when we bought it, since have added, cooling pro fmic, rims, pod filter, gauges and sound sys.

Next mods are exhaust, injectors, bigger turbo an tune bring on the power

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287047-my-stagea/#findComment-4814253
Share on other sites

Hey all i'm new around these parts been browsing the forums for a while. I've had my Stagea for about 5 weeks now it was purchased stock.

Its a 2000 Model RS four S can't drive it enough loving it at the moment.

Has a few mods now:

FMIC

Pod Filter

Rims and Sub/Amp etc

Just a few pics that were taken on the weekend.

9130_131891375833_584215833_2948392_1833317_n.jpg 9130_131891380833_584215833_2948393_5835958_n.jpg

9130_131891410833_584215833_2948397_5963463_n.jpg

Cheers

Very clean looking car mate!

Love it! looks like its been very well looked after, keep up the good work!

What pod did you get out of interest?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287047-my-stagea/#findComment-4814421
Share on other sites

Just using a Blitz pod filter, i have an engine bay photo around but not on my work computer

Cool, how much did that set you back?

I'm looking at buying a pod but are unsure which one I should get... I'm guessing they all do the same thing...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287047-my-stagea/#findComment-4814578
Share on other sites

Mention that it was totally stock as a rock when we bought it, since have added, cooling pro fmic, rims, pod filter, gauges and sound sys.

Next mods are exhaust, injectors, bigger turbo an tune bring on the power

How much trouble was the cooling pro fmic to fit? Did it fit up to the stock SMIC pipes ok? Need to move horns/cut bumper etc?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287047-my-stagea/#findComment-4815665
Share on other sites

Nice stag...Btw did you paint your grill black?looks cool ,I was thinking to do that...

The grill was black when i bought it and i dont think it was painted black either.

How much trouble was the cooling pro fmic to fit? Did it fit up to the stock SMIC pipes ok? Need to move horns/cut bumper etc?

The FMIC was an absolute prick to install turned into a 2 night session, the pipes fit, but we had to make new brackets to mount the cooler on so it didnt sit at an angle, we got it so that we didnt have to end up cutting anything. we took off the air conditioning fan because the motor was too big and got in the way of the cooler and the horns were easily moved. Fits like a glove now but it was tedious to say the least.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287047-my-stagea/#findComment-4815792
Share on other sites

The FMIC was an absolute prick to install turned into a 2 night session, the pipes fit, but we had to make new brackets to mount the cooler on so it didnt sit at an angle, we got it so that we didnt have to end up cutting anything. we took off the air conditioning fan because the motor was too big and got in the way of the cooler and the horns were easily moved. Fits like a glove now but it was tedious to say the least.

ooh 'eck. not an easy fit to a series 2 then. think I might not go for the cooling pro fmic right away - i'd like to keep my a/c fan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287047-my-stagea/#findComment-4817149
Share on other sites

FMIC = good now i know how to put one on it, was a totally F***EN mission to begin so much for a easy session haha. but AC is working fine without the fan we will be putting on a thin davey craig or somthing soon when we get a chance for summer. I figure the the radiator one is drawing a fair bit through anyway

Cooler looks tops and is indeed very stealth even though it is polished silver.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287047-my-stagea/#findComment-4817484
Share on other sites

FMIC = good now i know how to put one on it, was a totally F***EN mission to begin so much for a easy session haha. but AC is working fine without the fan we will be putting on a thin davey craig or somthing soon when we get a chance for summer. I figure the the radiator one is drawing a fair bit through anyway

Cooler looks tops and is indeed very stealth even though it is polished silver.

Glad it turned out in the end. Matter of interest: have you got a series 2? and did you relocate your transmission cooler? if you didn't move your transmission cooler, do you think it would've made things easier if it had've been out of the way?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287047-my-stagea/#findComment-4819791
Share on other sites

Glad it turned out in the end. Matter of interest: have you got a series 2? and did you relocate your transmission cooler? if you didn't move your transmission cooler, do you think it would've made things easier if it had've been out of the way?

I can spot an S badge on rear, so no trans-cooler.

My R33 Greddy kit fitted fine, pipes perfect! horns relocated, reo skimmed, hole-sawed, heaps of room for A/c fan when i get one!

Love the grill!

Edited by RED513
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287047-my-stagea/#findComment-4819809
Share on other sites

Yeh its a manual. Um didnt want to trim reo bar as accident an insurance will most probs void it as i remember. Um AC works fine without it an we have had some hot days in last few weeks in bris. Grill looks mint black dunno are they meant to be chrome finish??

car goes good with more boost and specially at night with that cooler, works well good bang for buck upgrade

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/287047-my-stagea/#findComment-4822658
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...