Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yea Paul it was on roo we didnt chase the tune at all. put some timing and boost into it and that was it.

wont be long till we race it i still have to put the auto in it and gas it{ i know gas is for fags IM GAY}

Paul what sort of power did your car make on a race tune? just curious not taking the piss at all :P

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yea Paul it was on roo we didnt chase the tune at all. put some timing and boost into it and that was it.

wont be long till we race it i still have to put the auto in it and gas it{ i know gas is for fags IM GAY}

Paul what sort of power did your car make on a race tune? just curious not taking the piss at all :D

less power than you... :P ...with slightly less boost. Very safe tune though.

We thought it best to get the car set-up and running good consistant times with a sensible tune and reasonable boost levels. Ringing the engines neck while trying to get the set-up right is a bit silly as these engines have a short life at 1000hp+. Its now set-up right and quite consistant as the last 6 or 7 passes have been 9.7's or better with all the 60' times being in the high to mid 1.3's. Mark says there is lots left in it (about another 120hp at the treads with further boost and tuning) so ill be flying back up in a few weeks to run it again with a bit more power and set-up in the car. Small steps are the order of the day...trying big jumps can leave you frustrated and or a big expensive mess to fix.

any idea of how long till you take it out? remember the suspension guide i gave you...its a good starting platform and easier to fine tune from there.

good luck

Thanx mate. it wont be for about a month or two ive got other things going on{work shit}

so i still have to bolt the auto in and get shafts made but i will let you know

i know its easy enough to make the power we just have to get it down the track

Edited by superjet760
Ok dyno dynamics could read high but knock 200kw off the figure and im still making 300kw more than most :P

i lol'd.....to save an arguement...get Vic to do it in 'Shootout' mode...its the industry standard and cross-references directly to Mainline figures.

dyno's are for tuning anyway...racing is the true measure of performance.

id like to see it run so stay in touch before you take it out.

Haha its been a while since the last "flame someones dyno figures" session on here.

Nice work Superjet, sounds like a very impressive setup - be good to hear how it goes on the strip. I know RIPS has run around 150mph in a full weight R34 GTR without NOS and slightly less boost on an RB26/30 with the same or less amount of "turbo" so while I can't make heads nor tails of how different Oz dynos read, I know that if your head is good and the tune is nice - a 26/30 with a bunch of turbo, good fuel and 30psi can make for a very hearty amount of power.

Edited by Lithium

Well done mate, glad it worked out well for ya.

Was good talking to Con last week, we discussed a few things and I told him to go for it as we'd been alot further than you wanted to go with the same bottom end setup.

Best of luck mate, get the gas on there and let me know how me old auto goes too :D

Rob

Edited by R.I.P.S NZ
Rob is this the Turbo400 4WD you been working on?

Nah, this is a different set up alltogether.

The TH400 is all but done, I'm just waiting for the car to get here from overseas thats going to be our test mule.

Rob

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...